Tuesday, 4 September 2018

Arles and the Carmargue

03.09.18

On the day my son starts his new job in the city, we take a trip to Arles and Saintes Maries de la Mer.

The Rhone at Arles is vast and empty, one solitary fisherman on a boat and 2 enormous moored trip boats, one like we had seen in Tournon. There appear to be no small craft moorings here and the concrete banks are high and steep.

Walking into this once again faded beautiful city, I am very aware of Van Gogh's sad life here. The yellow house where he lived with Gaughin no longer exists, but the cafe he painted in Place de Forum is still here although the pretty cobblestones are gone and it is surrounded by other cafes. It is painted yellow with yellow sunshades which cleverly evokes his painted night-time glow.

We wandered around and took in the amphitheatre and another Roman semi circular theatre - they clearly liked their entertainments! But it is the city atmosphere that captured our senses. More narrow side alleys, quiet, hot and sleepy away from the busier periphery roads. We ate our lunch in the park across from some young teenagers who were doing the same, but more noisily. Pete noted their care in rescuing their food bags which blew away at one point. They sensibly threw everything in bins at the end of their lunch. It's a shame to even be mentioning it I guess, but you rarely see the same respect in Britain.

We drove down through the Camargue and saw our first pink mingos 😀 as our grandson would call them. Lots of ranches with white horses for hire and other wild white horses to be seen on this flat marshy landscape. Saint Maries del a Mer is the capital of the Carmargue on the coast with several small beaches formed into man-made coves flanked by rocks which makes the sea invitingly still. Whilst having a drink at a bar across from the bull arena we read that there will be a 'course de toureau ' in 2 days time. Pete asked the barman if we needed tickets and understood that the system of pay is to put money in a hat! We intend to go and watch this local sport. In all the years I have come here I have never seen one.

We were more careful where we chose to eat and had the most delicious guardien boeuf - a local dish we had not found on menus until now.

Back to the gite, driving across the Carmargue in the dark with windows open  and cicadas whistling outside.




4 comments:

  1. Glad to hear Dan has a new job.
    Great to see your brilliant photos. I can almost feel the heat.
    Continue to enjoy.
    Lots of love x

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  2. ps.How has the little man got on at school?

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Jenny. Our little man doesn't start until 11th, that day will be a landmark and we are all nervous for him. How is your big man? Better, we hope. Xx

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    2. Much better thanks. We are off to HM at the weekend for a slow and lazy trip down to Oxford.
      Continue to enjoy your hot and sunny travels. X

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