29th September
As we woke up to a cloudier day after rain in the night, we decided to revisit Nidri, where we had stayed on our original visit to this island in 1995 (?). Back then we used push bikes to explore as well as a little boat to find secluded bays. The main street running parallel to the busy harbour in Nidri was always manic, full of cafes, restaurants and tourist shops and local drivers who know how to weave in and out of walking tourists - it's hard to navigate by car, but now is easier because a bypass has been built at the back of the town. Twice we stayed in apartments behind the main street; 'George's ' and we have tried to find them again this holiday on other visits to Nidri. This time we succeeded as we recognised the supermarket we used to use, near the chicken run alleyway we took to get back and forth to them. The chicken run and scruffy gardens with vines and patchy veg still line the pathway to start with, but beyond these there are new apartment blocks. George's are now called Sunny Gardens Apartments, still a pretty, quiet location despite much more building having taken place around them. When we stayed here, there was nothing behind the block but olive trees and mountains and sheep grazing next door. Now there is another block but we were glad to see it didn't spoil the view from the swimming pool.
We had lunch at Tom's again at the 'beach' end of the harbour. We think this is where (or near where) we ate all those years ago with our toes in the sand and away from the bright hubbub of the strip of tavernas all along here. It's hard to tell as our memory is of a deeper beach - now there is an Ibiza style bar next to Toms, with loud music and decking covering the sand and posh wooden built upholstered sun loungers right to the sea edge.
At this end you can see Scorpios island which Onassis once owned and the other side of the bay at Nidri. We got talking to the English couple from Reading at the next table and ended up sharing a glass of wine with them, swopping stories about our travels and lives. A very pleasant hour or two was spent chatting and consequently it was nearly 5pm before we set off back to the villa. They told us that Scorpios was now owned by Russians and that some people who had attempted to moor on a beach there were greeted by armed guards who sent them packing. Not the Greek hospitality we are used to.
There is plenty to watch from here: the ferries coming in and out from Kefalonia and Meganissy, trip boats which have toured all the remote local beaches on this island and others, and individual craft of all sizes. Not sure who the enormous Elada belongs to - what a peculiar looking ship!
As we woke up to a cloudier day after rain in the night, we decided to revisit Nidri, where we had stayed on our original visit to this island in 1995 (?). Back then we used push bikes to explore as well as a little boat to find secluded bays. The main street running parallel to the busy harbour in Nidri was always manic, full of cafes, restaurants and tourist shops and local drivers who know how to weave in and out of walking tourists - it's hard to navigate by car, but now is easier because a bypass has been built at the back of the town. Twice we stayed in apartments behind the main street; 'George's ' and we have tried to find them again this holiday on other visits to Nidri. This time we succeeded as we recognised the supermarket we used to use, near the chicken run alleyway we took to get back and forth to them. The chicken run and scruffy gardens with vines and patchy veg still line the pathway to start with, but beyond these there are new apartment blocks. George's are now called Sunny Gardens Apartments, still a pretty, quiet location despite much more building having taken place around them. When we stayed here, there was nothing behind the block but olive trees and mountains and sheep grazing next door. Now there is another block but we were glad to see it didn't spoil the view from the swimming pool.
We had lunch at Tom's again at the 'beach' end of the harbour. We think this is where (or near where) we ate all those years ago with our toes in the sand and away from the bright hubbub of the strip of tavernas all along here. It's hard to tell as our memory is of a deeper beach - now there is an Ibiza style bar next to Toms, with loud music and decking covering the sand and posh wooden built upholstered sun loungers right to the sea edge.
At this end you can see Scorpios island which Onassis once owned and the other side of the bay at Nidri. We got talking to the English couple from Reading at the next table and ended up sharing a glass of wine with them, swopping stories about our travels and lives. A very pleasant hour or two was spent chatting and consequently it was nearly 5pm before we set off back to the villa. They told us that Scorpios was now owned by Russians and that some people who had attempted to moor on a beach there were greeted by armed guards who sent them packing. Not the Greek hospitality we are used to.
There is plenty to watch from here: the ferries coming in and out from Kefalonia and Meganissy, trip boats which have toured all the remote local beaches on this island and others, and individual craft of all sizes. Not sure who the enormous Elada belongs to - what a peculiar looking ship!
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