Caen Hill flight

26th September

Up early for once leaving Devizes to do the Caen Hill flight of 16 locks plus 6 before we got there and 7 after! I think I managed 4; poor Pete. CRT volunteers helped for the last 10 or so, which was a blessing and made our progress much faster. They are a very welcome sight.

The flight has a beautiful view from the top and the sun shone again to make it easier. There were several school parties out to watch the ups and downs and some canoeing in the pound, all very jolly, we even had some help with the lock gates from some of them.

A tiring day with a well earned beer at the end of it. Cheers.







The end of the flight


Pete with CRT volunteer, Roy




Our other helper, Colin


Er?

Location:Seend

Following the kingfisher

The stretch between Wootton Rivers and Devizes becomes very tranquil, with no locks for 14 miles. Peaceful with a capital Peace! Once away from the engine noise sitting in the bow, you can hear the reeds rustling as they close in on both sides. Dragon flies dart, kites fly, I saw a snake in the water and a kingfisher lead our way, settling in the reeds, then darting off to swoop low over the water just as the boat got close. This is how we always see them, a blue flash whizzing along ahead of us as if to say "I'll show you the way".
Try as I might, I couldn't get a decent photo, despite aiming a zoom lens in the area where it had last disappeared. This is my best attempt, spot him if you can!!










Kingfisher! And there's a canal in there somewhere.

Steam trains, wide beams and bicycles

24th September

14 locks today of which I managed just 5! We followed a wide beam all the way, which meant the locks were against us, but we still made Wootton Rivers by 3 which was fine. It was raining a little when we set off, but soon cleared to be another warm and sunny day, if a little windy.

Whilst waiting for the lock to empty at Crofton, where there is a pumping station with 2 19th C steam engines (a visit on the way back, we hope), there was a distinct train whistle and a Great Western steam train came hurtling through with several Pullman coaches, cosy lamps at their tables in the windows - gorgeous and going at a hell of a lick, with the driver and guard clearly enjoying themselves. I wonder why these old engines give you such a thrill. Sadly I didn't have the camera on deck, although it would have been hard to capture it.

I walked between two locks and stood by to let an elderly gentlemen through on his bike. As he approached me, he wobbled as he saw the towpath narrow where there was a chunk out of the bank. He gracefully and in slow motion toppled towards the hedgerow and laid down - you couldn't call it a fall really. It was almost slapstick. However, I was alarmed to see that he didn't immediately right himself and he had gone very pale as I lifted his bike for him. Thank goodness, just as my mind was racing with "can I remember my resuscitation training?", he just as slowly got to his feet, saying he'd feared he was going to fall in the canal. Poor chap - not surprisingly, he wheeled his bike from there. Best he gets back on some tarmac I reckon.




Pumping station


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Lock sharing

23rd September

Pete now has his little helper back although I'm not much use with these locks. This morning I decided to do the first few for exercise, didn't manage much as the top gates are high to climb and my knees don't like it. The lock beams have a stirrup hung beneath them as a step up, but for shorties like me it still isn't enough and to get down via one is difficult because you can't see where it is when standing on the gate beam! So although the winding mechanisms are easy, the gates are well balanced and easy to open, for me it is necessary to walk the length of the lock to get across by the bottom gates where I don't need to climb. I suppose they were designed for hefty boatmen, not squirts like me with dodgy knees.

Lock 73 was a new experience, a swing bridge across the middle of it, which of course you have to open before you fill the lock, lest the boat gets rammed underneath it!! Once again, I had difficulties 'swinging' it - what a laughable description that is. Pete had to disembark and work it for us. The ground slopes away too so that he ended up stretched up to reach the beam to push it closed! Needless to say this was a particularly slow start to the day.

We were relieved to join another boat and lock through with them. They were a very nice group of three and we got to know a little about their boating life as you do in these situations. Their boat had been their retirement present to each other and they had been out all summer, picking up friends (the third crew member being one) and family along the way, reuniting with people they used to have narrow boat hols with in the 70s. Anyway, we proved to be a pretty good team of 5, even though we say it ourselves and it was a pleasure to meet them.

The canal and it's surroundings get prettier and prettier and even though you are just yards from the railway line, it's a sleepy one and part of the charm. Sunny and still again, chilling off in the evening and we moor in Great Bedwyn, a pretty village which once had a stone masons museum, but now just the carved stones remain displayed outside the post office!! Our locking friends on Merdeka as nearby neighbors.






                                          Pete chatting to the hotel boat crew

Location:Great Bedwyn

Train travel and lone locking

22nd September

I travelled back from Newbury to visit home, my mum and to see my grandson, now 5 weeks old. The 6 day boat trip from Reading to Newbury took me 30 minutes back by train! We were only cruising 4 hours or so per day but it's no wonder railways took over from the canals for industrial transportation!

Pete moved the boat by himself to Hungerford where I got back onboard on 22nd. He had obviously enjoyed the challenge, but I wouldn't have wanted to do those deep locks on my own. He works out a routine which involves climbing on the roof of the boat once in lock and climbing out via the slimy ladder with the midline, tying this and the bowline, then operating the gate paddles.
Blow that for a game of soldiers, I say. He's bonkers.

Hungerford is pretty at the canal end of town and some of the buildings are built with the lovely honey coloured stone familiar in Bath (Bath stone?). Lots of people were out and about, families feeding the ducks and just sitting on benches enjoying the hot sunshine; we are having unusual weather. Despite having had a wonderful few days with family and another much needed cuddle with my small grandson (it's like a drug), it was good to be back. I certainly have the best of both worlds.





Pete's misty morning


Is that a cow on the towpath?


Our Hungerford mooring

Location:Hungerford

West Mills Newbury

17th September

Walked through the old part of Newbury which is very pleasant and checked out where the train station is for my return to real life tomorrow. Found a Spanish restaurant and some paellla for dinner. Moored in West Mills, opposite terrace of attractive houses alongside a small park, just before swing bridge. Warm and sunny again.

Newbury and washing

16th September

We were a little hurriedly forced off our nice mooring this morning by a very large trip boat (the Bruce Trust) which was attempting to turn around just before the swing bridge where there was no winding hole and, as they soon found out, very little width. They hit our bow whereupon a "not very happy about it" Pete told them he would move back so they could get more swing round. The innocent smiling folk in their bow only inches from me as I undid the bow rope apologised which was ok but then one congratulated me on managing to pull in our rope (not a difficult task) which was patronising to say the least. Another boater told Pete this same boat had hit them too - what on earth is the driver doing in charge of a trip boat?! Hey ho.

The weather warm weather brightened to a hot day again as we pressed on to Newbury, through some 8 locks - Pete operating most. We went through another turf-sided one, Old Monkey Marsh Lock, only one of two left on the canal, listed as an ancient monument by English Heritage, but not a very majestic one, the banks being full of canal mud slimed nettles and weeds! Tricky to hold in with a rope as there are only steps to secure it. And it seemed to be even slower to fill. Very tired by the end of the day as these locks and swing bridges take it out of you, but there is plenty of pretty landscape to make up for it. We moored by Greenham Bridge, as, hooray, there's a launderette here up the road over the bridge and we need our sheets and towels washed. What an exciting piece of news that is for the blog!! Bet Sid and Jenny will appreciate the knowledge though!




Greenham Bridge


Newbury Bridge

An unexpected treat of a mooring

15th September

From Theale to Woolhampton, stopping at Aldermaston boat yard to fit our new relay switch.

On the way, these are tricky locks, meaning that we don't get too far in a day! Easy winding of paddles for weedy me, with well greased barrel mechanisms, but the gates are swingers and drift open by themselves or don't open fully to let the boat through on one gate. They are doubles, so you have to tie up in them and we have learned; tie up midline and bowline because the flow (flow?! more like torrent) of water once you start to fill (however slowly) is so strong you get bashed from side to side of the lock. These are deep locks and their flow is severe. It's also difficult to throw ropes upwards in a lock 9' deep! It is amazing how different each canal can be. Not only are we encountering these slow locks but swing bridges too, lots of them, of which most are comfortably mechanised, but some are released with a windlass and have to be pushed open like a lock gate. You have to stop the traffic on the mechanised ones, not good when you're coming through around 4pm and you cause queues! On several you have to set the lock beyond before you work the swing bridge, therefore this system plus the slow filling of the deep locks takes more time and thought than we are used to.

We have been shadowed from Theale by a very friendly chap who is painting his narrowboat as he travels. He is very pleasant, but tends to keep appearing at every turn just when we think he has moved on. He ' knows' a lot about the K and A, so keeps telling us what to expect. There is a fine line between those who impart important and helpful wisdoms and those who become know-alls. There he was again popping up just as we were filling water at Aldermaston, telling us that the next locks are very heavy and difficult!! And yes, as we were locking, he called out from the bank where he'd moored " heavy aren't they?" - for goodness sake!!!!

However, that evening despite him telling us that you can't moor just anywhere on the K and A, this night we ended up on a glorious mooring in Woolhampton in the hot afternoon sunshine amongst the trees and steps away from a great pub, The Rowbarge.

This pub is friendly (a young smiley enthusiastic landlord) stylish and was even playing some of our favourite music. Hey; we're home and dry, coupled with a glorious sunny September evening, a drink or two in the garden by the canal as the sun sets, then back to the boat for a slow cooked casserole we had left in cooking (this little vanette caravan oven is better than our all-singing,all-dancing one at home. Pete lights the fire (perhaps unnecessary but what the hell?) . Boating doesn't get better than this.

Oh and Fran and Olly send some pictures of my beautiful grandson, life couldn't be better!



House opposite our mooring

Location:Woolhampton

Reading

The oracle centre in Reading .......dinosaur park, obviously !



This one I believe had escaped from somewhere in Hampshire , which is why it didn't appear when Emily called it! I'll bet her grandad will be pleased its safe and well ! it still needs a name however? Terry dactyl

Off the Thames

12th September

After mooring in Sonning for Thursday night and having lunch at The Bull (another favourite pub), on Friday morning we left the Thames behind and started along the Kennet and Avon canal from its start in Reading. Through the Oracle shopping centre, where suited young men were playing crazy golf in their lunch hour in a dinosaur park! There is a traffic light system along this stretch, something we had never encountered before. You have to pull in to press a button which turns the light green if nothing is coming the other way. Not particularly boater friendly though as the approach to the switch has no landing pontoon! Most peculiar arrangement.

Here there are double locks with hefty gates so I am back to driving while Pete manoeuvres them. No more helpful lock keepers to rely on. We moored well past the built up areas of Reading through Fobney Lock which is mighty deep and has a nasty weir stream flow before it which shoves you sideways. I had to rev considerably to get beyond it and to keep the boat from scraping along the lock wall. The canal after this is suitably rural and quiet running alongside old gravel pits on one side and Fobney Meadow the other. We had thought we might venture back to the shopping centre on foot, but the sun came out, Pete went canoeing and we decided the mall was not sufficiently appealing.

Despite the daily sunshine and good temperatures, the atmosphere is getting more autumnal - spiders and daddy-long-legs inhabit the boat, there are blackberries in the hedgerows, owls hooting, and we lit the fire for a short time again last night.

Location:Reading

Wargrave, interesting property and a visit to a friend

10th September

We went the grand distance from Henley to Wargrave, through Marsh Lock and past the most amazing house which I think I have photographed before. It fascinates me, but I can't make up my mind whether I like it or not, it certainly doesn't appear 'cosy'. It's the modern addition on the left hand side that is so intriguing, sympathetically done but quite hard and functional - I would love to go inside.

I managed to visit Christabel, who kindly drove down Willow Lane to pick me up and take me back to her gorgeous cottage. I had just suggested I see her for a cuppa, but she insisted on providing supper (which was delicious and rustled up with no fuss). Pete was canoe training so left us to it and as we talk shop and girlie stuff, he was probably right to. So good to see C and natter on. I feel even more regretful that we didn't manage a stop in Chertsey to see Sally and Stuart though, although I console myself with knowing that they are busy; Stuart working hard and late as always, and Sally doing the Lewes art trail. Next time, next time.






It's adjoining summer and boat houses with steep cliff behind



                                                Part of the intriguing house's vast garden

Henley in the sun

8th September

Moored on the regatta field for two nights as we have plenty of time and the weather is sunny and hot. £16 for the privilege and the 'warden' is really on the ball; doesn't miss a single boat coming in.
This is a much nicer mooring than our usual Henley spot, it having a grassy bank where you can sit and there are not as many walkers passing close to the boat and peering in. We had several neighbours over the two days, all enjoying the sun, soaking it up and barbecuing as we were.

The 'gentle highway' slips by, the summer traffic now dropping off; less trip boats, more small slipper launches gliding by with groups heading off for 'luncheon' (as a skipper explained as he passed us) already tucking into their wine on board. A group of school children observed us and others in the lock, but seemed unimpressed - nothing they haven't seen or done before, their families probably all have boats anyway, living where they do! In the evening the rowers come out to train - a rhythmical beat and swish passing by, which is a soothing sound, but perhaps not to them as they work so hard.

Lovely lazy days.

Our back garden for the night

Next door neighbour and his polypin of wine at the ready!

Our river view

Eagle eyed warden, he either drives up in his 4x4 or smooths up on this little boat.

Marlowe PostScript

Having tried last year with no success because we were looking the wrong end of town, we managed to locate Tom Kerridge's Hand and Flowers pub this time, knowing better than to ask for a booking though as we know it is so popular.
Out of interest we looked online for the next booking possible and it appears it wouldn't be until May next year!!!!!!!!!
We wonder whether to book and tie ourselves to a boat trip there for that date - perhaps?

Marlowe plane display of love

On Saturday night in Marlowe, we became aware of a noisy plane above, it looped and spun and dropped out of the sky with breath taking agility, finishing with a heart drawn in smoke, across which the pilot 'wrote' three dashes; morse code? I hope his loved one was watching!!

We had two lovely comments to us from walkers on the towpath as we sat in the bow in the sunshine with the papers this weekend:
"What a lovely way to spend an afternoon, I'm very envious."
And:
"I'd rather be doing what you're doing than live in that big house across there. "
Yes, we do pinch ourselves from time to time. There's not many people who can 'live' on a different bank of the Thames night after night, we are very lucky.




Pity I didn't capture the smoke heart



Marlowe evening after a gloriously sunny day

Location:Henley

Cookham and Marlowe

6th September
We now have a leisurely trip back to Reading before us and then from there will start on the Kennet and Avon canal west to Bath and Bristol.

The weather has been grey, muggy and very still, which is very nice for boating. On Friday we moored in Cookham, a village we like very much and one that we haven't stayed in since about 1997 when on the barge. A busy mooring this, but a lovely stroll through the churchyard, past Stanley Spencer's grave into the village, where we had a beer at The Bel and The Dragon, an atmospheric pub dating from 1417, now with a vast dining area and a pretty garden. We remember it having a fantastic metal (zinc? Copper?) bar when we were last here, but that's gone, more's the pity. Still it retains it's old fashioned charm, tiny dark bars at the front, opening onto the stylish dining area at the back.

We ate at the Kings Arms though as Pete had spotted something more interesting on it's menu! It was very busy, it being a Friday night and Cookham's regatta is tomorrow.

On Saturday we took a walk up to the station to find a paper shop, this having become one of those villages now full of hairdressers, nail bars and posh frock shops instead of good old honest butchers and green grocers (a pity). The walk was also to find the locations of the little block prints of Stanley Spencer's paintings we have on the boat from all those years ago; one of the old road bridge stretching into the village and one of 'the Brew House' which we think must have been painted from the back garden as it looks completely different to his painting from the street. We then went to his gallery to feast on some originals - I love his work and he loved Cookham (his birthplace, the memory of which sustained him through the war). He certainly put it on the map, even though his more famous works are scenes of First World War, industry and religious themes.

Back to the boat and on to Marlowe to moor for the night. We managed to get on the 24hour free moorings, the only other one being near the popular duck and swan feeding area and which costs you £12 for the privilege. The sun came out as we were sitting in the bow and Pete decided to take to his canoe as the Saturday 'traffic' died down.


Stanley Spencer's 'View from Cookham Bridge' 1936 - we moor on the bank in the distance

 
A small view of part of Cookham Regatta, there were very few boats on show, which seems a little odd. Very different from Spencer's painting of the same thing remembered from his childhood (above).

Location:Marlowe

Boat put to rights

2nd September

Kindly Tim Barfield came to our aid this morning. At first he thought it was a dead battery, but turns out the problem was the split charge relay and after an hour or so we were on our way again and only £100 lighter.
Last evening we had visions of 3 figure sums, with Pete taking advice from his son over the phone; test this, test that etc.

Still we had a lovely evening, it being a baking hot day. A pint at the Anglers, with Dara O'Brien at the next table, then back to eat in the bow, whilst an enormous amount of hard working rowers and canoeists swarmed past us at regular intervals. And people on the opposite bank sat outside their chalets eating and drinking and enjoying the warmth.

I love the water in this weather as the evening light changes, it positively changes colour through blue/greys to golden to pink tinged. Can't capture it by camera, try as I might.

Here are my attempts - they need some photoshop enhancement to do the river any justice!

Dave Gilmore's beautiful boat ballroom - shame the seagulls make a mess of the glass canopy!

Location:Shepperton

Boating hold-up

2nd September

Beautiful hot sunny day. We planned to moor on Lindsay's Lawn again this evening, but our ignition switch has been playing up, sometimes not firing which is a worry in a lock. Today, despite gallons of WD 40 over the last few days, it was proving more temperamental so we decided to stop near Walton marina to ask if we could get an engineer to look at it. He will come out tomorrow, so it looks as if we are stuck here. Shame there's only the Swan and the Anglers pubs to choose from!

I had a lesson from the cheery Sunbury lock keeper in how to throw a rope to lasso a bollard above (we are now going back upstream of course). It was a good technique and I passed with flying colours. He told me women are better at throwing ropes than men and that his wife had practiced on flower pots in the garden! The secret is to use the weight of the whole rope, hook the last couple of inches onto your little finger, loop the rest, half the loops between your two hands and using both hands, sling the whole lot either side of the bollard. Dead easy - not!!
I can't count the number of times I miss and then it never goes right - the rope goes into the water and you find yourself flinging a wet rope upwards to a disgruntled lock keeper and feeling like a complete plonker. Hopefully I will perfect this new technique and then become a cowgirl.

Location:Walton on Thames

Photos

This is why swans pester you when you are quietly sitting in the bow - they are so used to being fed, they reach right in expectantly. Mum had her sleeve pecked at. They are beautiful but a bloody nuisance.




                                          One for Jenny and Sid



                                          Pretty planting


                              The new prison at Windsor?!! (Railway bridge under renovation)

Dad

We left Kingston on a grey drizzly Monday after mum and I scattered the last of Dad's ashes from the side hatch of the boat whilst Pete drove at tick-over speed. Mum had wanted to scatter ashes in the Thames and Pete suggested from the boat which was ideal as we were able to do it by the restaurant where we have had several family meals in the past and opposite the Ait where mum and dad celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary and even better than either of these, the part of the river pretty much where they had boarded a boat for a celebratory river trip with friends and family the day after their wedding in 1949. 'Dad' is now in Upminster (where they met), in our garden which he loved, in Italy where they had such happy times and now the Thames. I also loved it when Pete observed that the flow would take him down to the East End - his family routes!!
So long, Dad x

Location:Hampton Court

Kingston weekend

1st September

On Friday we moored in Kingston on the shopping bank and picked up some supplies, then moved over to the moorings on the quieter side of the river. We had a fantastic dinner at Mum's, one of two this weekend - she is still a star cook and never forgets the type of things you like. And would you like second, third, fourth helpings?!

On Saturday, we took her for a slightly windy trip up to Hampton Court, where we moored for lunch and the sun came out (just). A short trip but enjoyable and nice to do something different with Mum.

On Sunday, we took the car which was stored at Mums and drove to London to meet family and to wet the baby's head by having lunch at their local; a fabulous, grand unspoiled Victorian hostelry on Green Lanes. Pete is highly amused by my babylove as apparently I don't stop grinning from ear to ear and it is clear I am itching to hold him at every opportunity. As my sister commented on the phone from Oz, 'I can hear you smiling when you talk about him'. She knows just how it feels having two grandchildren of her own. He behaved impeccably of course on this his second visit to a pub, appearing transfixed by the bright windows and the red buses passing by. Good to see my mum with him again and to see Uncle Bro (Olly's name for Dan) as amused as his brother at the various expressions that come and go on a two week old baby's face! We are very impressed by the parents who are as relaxed and natural as can be - I am sure I wasn't with my own. Enough of the baby talk now, what a bore I can be.

The boat continues to provide all comforts and it was so nice to be Mum's neighbour for a while. Our chimney sweep brush gave up the ghost unfortunately and this is an important piece of equipment unless we want to get choked by backdraft. Short of finding an obliging hedgehog to use, Pete was forced to travel all the way to Uxbridge to buy a new one as Thames chandleries don't stock such things it seems, there being more gin palaces than chuffing canal boats on the river I suppose. Silver ice buckets are probably more their necessities.

Location:Hampton Court