Mist and sun

Wednesday 5th October

We wake up to heavy mist all around the house and then no running water! 
Once the mist had cleared, we drove into town and emailed our hosts from the library. As there was no immediate reply we attempted to call them from a phone box, but it was broken! Having no phone signal here is a problem in these circumstances. Eventually the very kindly ladies in the Chamber of Commerce information centre made a call to the town water board whilst allowing us to call our hosts in Massachusetts who were as puzzled as we were until we heard that the hydrants were being flushed which meant the water being switched off for 2-3 hours. Having not looked at a local paper,we (nor our hosts) weren't to know. 

After a not so good lunch at the Red Onion, a place for OAPs it appeared, and as the sun had beaten off the mist and for the first time here the temperature crept up to 64, we drove to Bald Mountain to brave the hike. A 2.6 mile round hike and exhausting, the end of the upward climb being rocky. A young chap, Dan, sped past us and made it to the top of the look out tower well before we did. We took around an hour and a half, he managed it in 40 mins! I have to say here that I am the hindrance with my dodgy knees, I think Pete could've got there quicker. But the slog was so worth it, to be able to see across Rangeley Lake in one direction (back to where we are staying) and Mooselookmeguntic (great name!) Lake in the other and the mountains in their glorious colours was fantastic. Eagles soaring above us too. And the air warm and fresh. 

Had a chat with the very friendly Dan, who we reckon was not more than 25 years old and was travelling around in his car alone just 'taking it as it comes, no plans'. He had seen a picture of this view and decided to see it for real. His home is in Indianapolis and he was having to get to South Carolina to play football this coming Saturday. Needless to say, he literally bounded past us again on the way down - sure-footed as only the young can be. 

We felt a great sense of achievement and celebrated with an ice cold beer on the way back at Loon Lodge on the lake, sun slowly setting. 

Our climb, look out and descent took us around 3 hours.

Moosley Bagels and fiery trees

Lunch of cream cheese and lox bagel for me, BLT for Pete at Moosley Bagels overlooking the lake. The choice of breads and fillings ridiculously wide; wheat, rye, white, bagels with sun dried tomatoes, onions, potato, jalapeño and more! Stuffed again. 

We went to the quilt shop which didn't disappoint. Pete was impressed too! So many sizes, shapes and so many different colourways. Sadly too bulky to take home and the prices were high, rightly so considering the work that goes into them. I asked if the owner gave classes and she said twice a year many quilters come from other states and get together to share ideas and techniques with anyone who wants to learn. Something I would love to join in on but I know my sewing skills are lacking so I wouldn't get very far. 

Library again to get online and check in with mum's carers' and my sister's updates. And also to put the blog online and I fear I am doubling/tripling up my photos! 

The weather is warming again and should be sunny tomorrow. More and more trees catch your eye as you travel around, some positively luminous in the grey light. The maples seem to be the best of course. One tree alone having colours from yellow through pink to orange like a flame and that, set alongside a deep red maple, is a rich treat to behold. No wonder so many of the quilts we saw are constructed with these colours - it is a vast palette to work with. 

Our house

Our house

Clouds over Bald Mountain

It's cloudy, so to take a hike up a mountain would probably be a waste of time for any views you might get. So instead, we went to Mingo loop for an on-the-level trail but we couldn't find the start so ended up driving around quiet residential dirt roads with huge houses tucked into the trees, deer roaming in the total silence. You don't see many people about. However we were told in the quilt shop  weekend coming will be busy as it is Columbus Day and a holiday weekend. She told us that most holiday camps are being shut up now for the winter and there seem to be a lot of these here. 

Back in to Rangeley and a walk by the shore followed by a wander around their lovely book shop/gallery: Books, Lines and Thinkers! Like the library there is an old fashioned feel to this shop, low-light lamps and heavy dark wood shelves with lots of good books to browse and some beautiful watercolours of the area on the walls - bit too pricey to purchase. The owner and his Thai wife realised that we were from 'over the pond' and asked about our camera being allowed on the plane as security is tightened regarding lithium batteries. This was news to us. The only restrictions we had come across was that Samsung Galaxy smart phones had to be turned off on our internal flights. The book shop owner said he was flying to Texas and then Indianapolis and there were warnings about taking anything with a lithium battery. 

In the evening we had a drink at the  Rangeley Tavern, then a sensibly sized dinner at Forks In the Air, where 2 other tables were occupied, which surprised me as it is Monday night and the town is deserted and it is obviously the end of the tourist season here. We think we must be the only English folk in the town.

Sleepy town

On Sunday we took a drive out to Saddleback and walked the lake trail through the woods to Saddleback lake. It is overcast and cool here  - much easier to walk in than the heat and bustle of New Orleans. In fact the forest is completely silent apart from a little bird song. Moose have been here (hoof prints in the mud) and  the moose is to these parts as the lobster is to Kennebunkport; references to the beast everywhere on signage and souvenirs. I hope to see the real thing before we leave. 

We picnicked on the South shore of 'our' lake in the Rangeley state park but the wind was chilly coming off the water so we didn't stay long and Pete told me that bears particularly like ham and coleslaw sandwiches which kind of made the dark wood backdrop a little less appealing!! 

Back to the  house for cups of tea and the fire lit as the town is asleep on this Oktoberfest weekend. There is nothing for it but to rest, relax and chill out. 

Out of range in Rangeley

On 30th, we drove on, stopping to see the Portland lighthouse which was a waste of a long diversion because you couldn't get to it, or so it seemed. The gateway had a sign Government property, keep out. Still we breathed in the fresh scent of the roaring Atlantic and then continued our 3 hour drive to the mountains and lakes of Rangeley. 

The trees are just beginning to turn and every so often you are struck by those Autumn hues that are so stunning. There is still a lot of green however and we know from our research that it is hard to predict exactly when you will get the full show. We are now officially 'leaf peepers'. This state is very wealthy and the roads are dotted with weatherboarded houses amongst the woods. Their log stores are about 5 times the size of ours, they need to be given the snowy winters here. They are already well into the Halloween season here - there are pumpkins for sale everywhere and lots already cut with faces or just as they are, on the front 'stoop'  of homes. Flower shops sell pumpkins and ball bush chrysanthemums of the same sort of colours as the trees, so pretty. 

We found our Airbnb - a lakeside home of which we have the upper floor with the best views over Rangeley Lake. We were welcomed with an apple strudel laid out for us with "Happy Oktoberfest" label attached. And the house is almost as vast as the lake, with 2 living areas (one enormous and both with lake views),  2 bedrooms and a laundry room. Interestingly furnished in an old fashioned Colonial style, heavy dark wood tables and chairs, sofas with lots of cushions, masses of books everywhere, plus plenty of CDs and DVDs, a rocking chair (of course) and a decked area all the way around the outside. We were disconcerted by the fact there were a few clothes in the wardrobes, caps and coats hung on pegs and lots of homemade frozen food in the freezer as well as copious amounts of other food stuffs elsewhere. And although we knew there was no wifi nor TV here, there is also no phone signal, so you are completely cut off which is a weird feeling these days. It took us a while to work out how to get the music system on and the heating on in the bedroom, but once we had done this and Pete had lit the fire and the wine was flowing we began to feel at home. We guess the people who own this live here properly for as much time as they can manage (they use the downstairs as well) hence it feeling like you're trespassing a bit. Other airbnbs are not used by their owners and so are devoid of personal stuff.

The view here is absolutely stunning and I am convinced I can see the trees turning in real time. I heard my first loon which so adds to this atmosphere. Pete of course, has experienced similar terrain in Minnesota. That's how I know it was a loon I heard. 

Kennebunkport Maine

29th September and we left the hot city and flew to Boston where we picked up our hire car and drove for an hour or so to Kennebunkport, a place Pete had cleverly identified as a pretty waterside stop for the night. We stayed in a basic lodge just outside the main town. The whole area is fabulously New England, rich with weatherboarded buildings fronted by deep porches with the ubiquitous rocking chairs and swing seats. I love it. We ate at Federal Jacks - Maine lobster which was delicious. And I put my bib on to eat it! Pete declined and ended up with spattered clothes. Our sweet waitress, whose husband is from Staines, ( can't imagine why he wouldn't prefer to go back there to live, haha) came back to us after a decent length of time to ask  how ' the battle' was going, by which time we were finished amongst a table of shells and napkins. 

The whole of Kennebunkport is lobster obsessed; toys, t shirts, pjs, slippers, hats - you can't get away from them. A very happy experience! 

Last night Nawlins

Breakfast at Lil Dizzies as recommended by our lovely cab driver, Bernice. She was right, a good plate of 'sunnies', bacon and home made hash browns, toast and coffee and we were set for the day!  
For our last night in Nawlins, we just had to return to the Carousel Bar it is so good. Then a slow hot walk back along the lovely Royal Street, taking in a gallery of photographer Frank Relle's evocative work. 

Our intention was to eat at Alfonsos above the Apple Barrel Bar in Frenchman St (our Airbnb host had recommended) but when we got there and entered the bar it was pitch black and we were told there was an electricity failure all along that end of the street. We had a beer all the same, not particularly clever on top of cocktails and Pete was confused about his change; asked the barmaid who said "you left a red on the bar" because we couldn't see in the gloom! A red, we discovered, is a 5 dollar bill. 

After this and because we were so hot and sticky having not been in air con for an hour, rather than turn back to Royal or somewhere, we had dinner at Buffas on our way home, which was not good and because we were early in the evening, neither was the music. A young girl on guitar soullessly singing her own work plus some Bob Dylan. A shame when all the bars in town seem to have excellent musicians, our fault for not staying in the quarter. 

Never mind it has not spoiled our view of this fantastic city. 

love this lists of aims for the school's pupils