Goblin beach

27th September
With the help of the Scottish lady in Carrefour supermarket and with Olly's reccy, we found Ammousa beach. Small, only 20 minutes away and down a pretty quiet olive tree lined road which was not too steep. The beach has bamboo umbrellas, cheaper than the other beach at 4euros per pair and a bar and a taverna. Quiet and secluded except when R decided to race along the boardwalks shouting loudly. We played making zoos and space rockets and towers from the pebbles which quietened him for a short time at least. We were aware of older folk dozing on their loungers!

In 1995 or thereabouts we drove to a beach here and an old lady requested a lift from us. She sat in the back of the car in her traditional black dress and headscarf, not saying a word and we thought she would alert us to where she wanted to be dropped. She didn't and got out of the car with us at the beach and sat on a low wall, where she remained for most of the day. We wonder to this day what she was up to and whether we completely misinterpreted her intentions and had dragged her to somewhere she had no desire to go to. We now believe Ammousa is the beach as it has a low wall and the road enters it as in our memories. We half expected to find her still sitting there!

So we have renamed this beach Goblin beach. This is because on that same holiday, the lovely Yorkshire family next door to us in our apartments told us that their 8 year old son had seen a black attired old lady with her walking stick and asked, "is that a goblin?" That stuck!

Beach umbrellas slowly being taken down as it is the end of the season, the pole gets pushed down into the ground up to table level:

Charades

26th September
On the beach in front of us was a young foursome of we know-not-what nationality, possibly Croatian. It was hard not to watch their game of charades after their lunch and before they resumed their snorkelling as one girl was particularly good. Her mime was elegant and precise. She raised her right hand and indicated something rising from it and also indicated that she was wearing a robe: first word. Then second word; mimed eating, and a triangular shape on her plate - her friend cried 'torte' and then got it.

American Pie. Funny how I got it too! She was good!

Lefkada old town

24th September
We assisted OFRL back to the airport as we doubted they would be able to get all their clobber in their car. I was quite tearful saying goodbye especially as R had grown so quiet after a wrestling match back at the villa to get his clothes on him. He had got used to running around naked and wanted to go on the plane like that. We told him he would have to tell all his 'hanimals' about his holiday adventure when he got back to London, but he still looked confused.

Once we had said goodbye at around 11am, we drove into Lefkada as we had never been there. Two waterside strips are lined with touristy eateries with moored craft on the seaside. Very pleasant but the menus were dull and not particularly Greek: club sandwiches,crepes and pizzas. So we headed for the old town where fisherman and their families would have lived years ago when this was a tiny fishing port. Most of the streets were alleyways and pedestrianised and it was immediately quiet apart from the odd TV playing in a house. A cyclist and a motorbike went by but no one else - it was coming up to siesta time. Little houses with pretty balconies of flowers and shuttered windows. We found the centre square with its church, where children were playing football surrounded by bars and tavernas. It all made such a change from the beach and we spent some time wandering around just taking in the buildings, churches and a library square. We ate in the centre in the shade from the blasting sunshine : 'shrimps' (more like langustine) and fennel salad. Fantastic. This felt like the real Greece - not too touched by tourist demands.


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Family visit

17th - 24th September
Drove to Preveza airport after dark to meet O, F and the children. Their plane was on time and we saw it land as we neared the airport. So exciting to see them. R whizzed about, L smiled.

The week with them has been a sharp contrast to our so-far lazy holiday. Early mornings in the swimming pool with R and 'Mr Skinny Legs' ? His name for his inflatable turtle. It was a lucky thing that this was still inflated as our visiting cats had stretched out on it and punctured it with their claws! Mended by yours truly with a dozen plasters and much determination! R was swimming with his armbands on by day 3 and delighted with his achievement.

The sleeping arrangements at the villa didn't quite work as we had intended as R is still getting used to being in a bed and was in danger of falling out, so his mezzanine bedroom wasn't right for him. He slept on his mattress on the floor of his parents room, with L in a cot beside their bed. Just as well the room was big enough.

Lots of fun all week, bbqs, late dinners with O and F in the balmy evening cooked by O, more lunches and dinners on the beach and at Stavros' in the harbour. We were able to take our grandchildren to the bakery for a morning out. R having a very large freshly squeezed orange juice and fruit pancakes. A joy to be able to do this. And O and F managed a night out on their own, whilst R had a late supper with his grandparents.

I had a mad session with R in the shallows at Mikros Galios beach as the pebbles and gentle waves plus my dodgy knees were enough to stop me being able to get to my feet after my swim. Neither of us could quite manage to stay on our feet and R was not happy when he got a sip of salt water! Of course I got the giggles which made it even harder to get upright. We rolled about for a short while like this , R sitting on my legs, and eventually found our way out. R appeared to have enjoyed it but sadly didn't want to go in again. Certainly not with unreliable Granma.

Games on the turtle and with water balloons were the best fun. Funny how grown men take to this hilarity as much as 3 year olds. O hurtling a water balloon over the trees by the use of the enormous pool sieve. Pete deciding it was just as much fun to squirt the water out of the ballon before tying it.

L took all of this in her stride. Her running entertainment is watching her brother whom she clearly adores especially when he sings and dances. Broad smiles for him and for us whenever you talk to her. The Greeks are so fond of children, lots of comments about her chunky shape and smiley disposition and waiters chat to them both. R is very shy and not willing to tell them his name, but they pat his head and chat to him anyway.

F's gentle way with both their children pays off, I know I am biased but they are the best. O provides the madness games and clever distractions - transforming R into a chicken souvlaki wrapped in bread (a towel) stopped some tears over a grazed toe.

As for Granpy, his bonkers games with speed boat turtles and counting shoes in R's hammock 'shoe shop' whiled away some hours and kept R engrossed. Not so good when F tried to have a relax in the hammock, (not knowing the game) and got covered in beach shoes.

A frenetic week, but so enjoyable.






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Porto Katsiki and honey

16th September
We decided to take a trip to the west side of the island, where the beaches are backed by high cliffs and the sea is open.

The journey up and down hills took us past many honey and oil seller stalls, the products glowing gold in the sunlight. What inticing hand written signs these are: honey, olives, olive oil, wine, thyme, oregano. Of course we had to stop at one. We bought dark oak honey and 4euro plastic bottle of local rose wine. The wine little rough but great when properly chilled.

On to the beach, glaring white pebbles in the sun. The trip boats were coming in when we arrived. Nidri Star blaring Greek music whilst its passengers disembarked onto beach and into the sea. Then 2 more big boats came in, one playing Macarena on a loop, which was a little peace shattering! People diving from the top deck! Happily they all sailed off to leave the beach layabouts like us in peace. The climb down here is a long steep one, so a taverna at the top offers a food and drink delivery service which was helpful. The conveyors must be fit - I wonder how many times a day they walk up and down those steps. Their alert when they bring food is a daft hooter or they just call 'beep, beep', which amused us of course. Great system.

A few swims and a lounge book-reading and we headed back along pine scented roads sticky with sun cream and salt (us that is, not the roads!).

Freshly squeezed orange juice

14th September 2017

Our friends flew back yesterday. We had a meal on the terrace of Stavros' taverna the night before and wished Simon a happy birthday for the 13th. J and S not happy to be going home I don't think - their 10days on this island was only just enough for them to have unwound from their incredibly busy lives.
We had been somewhat blown off the beach earlier - the wind quite strong so that umbrellas had to be closed and the sea pushed you about if you dared to swim, quite fun though. Back at the villa, the wind was welcome, the pool barely ruffled.

The Internet connection at the villa is practically non existent - weak and in and out, so frustrating. However it gives you the excuse to go down to Syvota Bakery where the connection is fast and you can have a coffee and a pastry or a freshly squeezed orange juice in a jam jar. Most of the yachts had left for the day by the time we got down there today; 11. So the little streets were very quiet. There is just the faintest of breezes and the sea looks very calm, viewing from the villa the white sails were abundant. A rowdy bunch of Greek youths took off in a catamaran with eeky deeky music blaring and girls dancing - that's gonna be a riot of a day!

We are still confused as to the islands we are overlooking here. We are at the most southerly end of Syvota and can see Meganissy on the horizon, but in our foreground are 2 islands that someone told us were Ithakas, although one is called Akouda. Then further to the south there are more, the furthest being Kefalonia. Oddly the paper Lefkas Map we have (which is very basic) does not show them and we have struggled to find them online on google maps. We may have to resort to a shipping chart to really identify them.

Karya and Katouna

9th September 2017
We took a trip inland to Katouna where a house was for sale. This little village was once inhabited by fishermen but now is a tiny hamlet of only 50 or so people. That said there were 3 tavernas to service them. The little narrow streets were flanked with shuttered windows in pale blues and greens and windows adorned with the local cut work lace, so pretty. I imagine some properties are holiday homes or owned by non Greeks. I could hear a radio through a window with commentary in English. The house for sale would have lovely views from top windows and balconies and it had a sweet little garden. Certainly a place to consider if you wanted to live here.

On Saturday we chose to travel up to Karya where we have been before as it was overcast and windy. Another little village where we bought some bread and then had coffee and cake in it's verandah town square. Several touristy shops here selling rugs, clothes, olive wood products and olive oil toiletries and hand made lace. I bought a piece.

Back down to the villa and a meet up with Jackie and Simon, who had spent their day at the beach - off for dinner in Syvota. It's a hard life!

Property viewing

12th September
Days of beach time, fantastic bbqs with J and S and plenty of relaxed times around the pool. We have decided our favourite taverna is Stavros in Syvota harbour. At night you can sit on the first floor terrace looking out over the boats as it gets dark. Old Stavros shakes your hand as you leave and his staff are amazingly efficient and multi-lingual. Jackie is a great help with her bits of Greek language - and Pete and she practice on each other the little they know. I can just about manage eferisto (spelling?) and kalimera.

Since arriving here, Pete and I have discussed possibly buying a home here and we decided to view this penthouse in Nikiana. The owner/estate agent said he started this project in 2007, before the Greek economy crash. The building was finished in 2014 and the penthouse is still incomplete. It is a nice space with a mezzanine bed area, but it's most stunning feature is a 67sq meter terrace with 180 degree views of the bay looking back towards the mainland. They seem to plonk buildings wherever they choose and the usual open and scrappy olive tree groves surround you low down, mountains behind with plenty of green trees plus a small house and another 3 storied mess of a building! All this reached by a narrow steep rough road you would never dream of taking in any other circumstances - it's entrance from the easy to miss.

Hmmm, we will think about it ------- maybe.

Friends

7th September

Friends, Jackie and Simon arrived to spend a few days with us. We had shopped in Vasilikki for BBQ stuff and then met them on the harbour for a late lunch of souvlaki and of course local wine. Great to see them and although we did not have room for much more food once back at the villa, we ate dips and drank more wine well into the warm night under the scented jasmine canopy with our two frequently visiting kittens playing around by the pool.

Good to have friends to share this area with.

Simon at the BBQ

Jackie in the pool......

Boat trip

6th September

We hired a little motor boat from Syvota bay and tootled out following the Lefkas coast to find sleepy bays to swim in. There are lots of these plus a couple of cave inlets. Dropping anchor and swimming off the back of the boat was bliss. However, the wind got up around midday and the sea became quite choppy. We crossed to Meganissy and dropped anchor for some picnic lunch, but the slow undulation of the sheltered waves brought on my sea sickness! I swam for shore to get some respite.

We did manage to find a tiny bay that was like a millpond after this so all was good. Swimming, sunbathing watching the bigger boats come and go made for a lovely day. My only other problem however was my inelegant way of getting back into the boat up the stern ladder with my bad knees. With Pete's helping hand and some peculiar manoeuvres I managed it by getting my foot into the engine well which was lower than the landing deck. Not before I had somehow pushed the ladder out horizontally with my feet which meant I was face down on the deck!

On the way back the wind got stronger. We were lifted and dumped unceremoniously - oddly this doesn't make me seasick, I think because it is irregular. We were both quite glad to get back into the peace of Syvota Harbour and Pete brought the boat in perfectly. It was not the easiest thing to drive, the wheel was stiff and the throttle jerky - you were either in full pelt or snail pace, no in between. My thinking is the laid back Greeks are not too bothered about maintenance!

About 5pm, we were sitting comfortably in the nearest bar with a beer, listening to a sailing flotilla crowd being given their talk about where to explore. We wish them luck in those seas if it stays as windy.

All things Greek

In Parga, the apartment's owner so kindly gave us fresh tomatoes and figs from the garden. The figs were superb - we can never get them like that in the UK. And tomatoes juicy and tasty - never seem to be in UK anymore unless you grow them yourself. At night, the nicotiana flowers throw out their honey scent and moths fly in to drink the nectar.

In Syvota, the verandah is covered in jasmine which morning and night scents our eating place. The harbour is buzzing with port to starboard touching moored boats all along. The restaurants table virtually touching their mooring lines. Owners vie for your custom and lure you in with displays of fresh fish; bream, snapper, swordfish and of course calamari. A busy but tiny port which we remember as being only half full of boats in the 90s. We spoke to the boat owners nearest us - Shiraz of Gosport, because we were intrigued to know if they were actually from there - Gosport being near us. They were actually from Eastbourne and had been sailing for 4 years all around Spain, Portugal, Italy and were waiting to take a berth in Lefkada town for the winter.

The new intake of sailing crews had just arrived to take out their holiday boats, so the place was a hubbub of people getting to know one another. Another threesome of gentlemen we talked to were off on their own boat the next day to Sicily.

Terraces of olive groves, their nets furled beneath them ready for the harvest, local honey being sold from makeshift stalls by the side of dusty roads, old ladies in their black dresses and headscarves walking from where to where we know not, skinny cats on the harbour side waiting for scraps, papery bougainvillea in its resplendent shocking pink glory, blue jasmine, wild thyme and oregano, friendly helpful people with no rush about them, turquoise seas with busy ferries, flotillas of sailing boats and all manner of craft down to paddle boards...........that's the Greece we know and love.

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Syvota Lefkas

5th September
On Sunday, 3rd, we left Parga. Our last day had been at Sarakiniko beach, south of Parga, where we walked up a steep flight of 130 steps to a taverna for lunch; sardines, mousaka and the most perfect view. It is still just school holiday time so plenty of families still around and the small beach and taverna were busy.

We had to take the car back to the airport (an hours drive) and swop it for another because rental agreement couldn't accommodate the whole span of our time here oddly. We got a better car in anticipation of the climb to the villa we were about to encounter. Sorting all this out took some time but we made it to meet Tasos, the villa owner's partner by 2.30. The last 2.5km of the road here is unmade and incredibly bumpy, but once there the setting is stunning. This is the most luxurious villa we have ever had with its own pool. It is completely quiet with a view out over the sea to Meganissi . Two smaller islands before that baffle us as they do not appear on the map.

Now we are 2 days in. A trip to Vasiliki for supplies, souvlaki to BBQ, ouzo and metaxa for stock! And lots of salad, fruit and yoghurt. Perfect. And relax.

Beach life

1st September
We have a local beach; Valtos - a long bay overlooked by the castle in Parga. Hard to find a parking space but worth it once you do. 8 euros for 2 sun loungers and umbrella and from there you can watch the mad sea games and the ferries going in and out. Not to mention swim in that clear blue sea. Fab.

Don't think we have the nerve to go on the 'internal organ rearrangement' rides though. Being dragged through the water at 100mph on an inflatable sofa is not my idea of fun, nor the alternative; a four man lilo that completely takes off so that you are 'standing' in mid air strapped to a flying inflatable table! Pete reckons his son Stu would go for this and do it with one arm strapped behind him! That and the parasailing which looks blissfully graceful until you see them being reeled in whilst the parachute is still fully blown. The 'landing' from your swinging chair onto the back of the still moving boat looks like a shin shattering event despite the deft young men who guide you in. I will stick to blobbing (and I mean blobbing, I have no style) in the buoyant shallows along with the loved up couples, delighted children and oldies playing ball. Lilos and rubber rings fly past in the breeze having been let go of by mistake.

I saw a lovely image of a large mum holding her not so young daughter in her arms for a proper cuddle, shoulder deep in the water, they were giggling madly. And another dad lying in the shallow water whilst his two kids poured buckets of water over him which was obviously the best game ever as they were squealing with joy. As Pete said, it didn't occur to them that he was already soaking wet so made no difference to him. Kind dad continued to go along with the prank however.

I know it's such a common pastime sunbathing and swimming but there is nothing like it in my opinion for complete relaxation especially in these glittering seas under solid blue skies. Bliss.

And then an ouzo (me) and beer (pete) in the beachside bar - yes!


Sarakiniko beach, Along the coast from Valtos, opposite Paxos island

Parga

30th August 2017
Horribly early start at 2.30am to get to Gatwick for our 6.15 flight to Preveza. Boiled eggs and coffee for breakfast whiles away some time in the airport, then we sit on the plane for an hour, delayed by air traffic control/bad weather? Pete's knowledge makes him suspect there is another reason.
We finally leave rainy England and 3 hours later disembark into hot sunshine and sleepy Preveza airport.
While Pete is organising the car hire, I discover I have left my glasses on the plane. This being such a small airport, I was able to find a kindly check-in lady (the handling booth was unmanned) who made a call and had it confirmed that a cleaner had found them. 5 minutes later she had personally retrieved them for me. Now that wouldn't happen at Gatwick!

We travelled in our Smart car to Parga where we are staying for 4 nights before moving on to Lefkas and the villa we have booked. Our accommodation here is basic but adequate, funny how the Greeks don't think you need mirrors, and the towels, whilst beautifully clean and white are like cardboard - I guess they have been drying in the baking sun!

Parga town is touristy and bustling with its narrow alleyways and hilly roads, and a castle on the cliff. A beautiful harbour one end and a town beach the other and plenty of cafes, tavernas, food shops, bakeries (mmmm, spinach and feta filo pastry pies) and greengrocers. Fat juicy peaches, melon and Greek yoghurt for tomorrow's breakfast purchased and a Mythos beer consumed in a bar overlooking the glittering clear turquoise sea. Ah, we are in our favourite environment.

My first day somewhat marred by an ear problem though. Again as with my glasses, I was lucky enough to be directed to a health centre by the pharmacist, but when I got there there wasn't a soul around. As I was about to leave a taxi driver called to me to ask if I needed a doctor and kindly walked me a few yards up the road to Dr. Padiotis, who saw me straight away and confirmed an infection. 90 euros for this and a follow up appointment and prescription for antibiotics was a well worth the spend. I was very relieved to be able to start treatment this quickly. Pete had parked the car and been directed to me by a receptionist in the health centre. Kind people offering help when you need it and the doctor recommended an evening follow up appointment because as he kindly pointed out, we could then enjoy a drink and evening meal down the road on the waterside, he pointed out. We had a brief conversation with him about our stupid brexit situation and off we went.

A friend back in the UK when I had texted her and bored her with this story ( she did ask how I was!) said she had just made an appointment at our GPs for herself and the earliest she could get was 3 weeks time. Hmmm, my Greek experience was a good one. Sometimes it pays to pay sadly.


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