Steamboat on the Mississippi

This city is beautiful with its elegant balconied architecture, palm trees, banana trees and all kinds of music everywhere. People who inhabit it seem to be proud of it unsurprisingly. We came to the rescue of a cyclist who had lost control of his girlfriends bike which he was trailing along and he enthusiastically told us about his city and its vibe: no shortage of music bars and restaurants. As he cycled off he called back "thanks, if I see you in the Quarter I'll buy you a drink". 

Today, Monday 26th September , we did a very touristy thing and took the paddle steamboat Natchez trip. The fare included a buffet meal ; red beans and rice, mac n cheese, fried chicken and fish, candied yams, greens - kind of weird mixtures but interesting! A traditional jazz band played. The boat still runs on steam unlike the other trip boat operating here. It's fierce steam whistle lets you know and someone plays a steam organ from the top deck as you embark: saints go marching in ! 

It was lovely to be in a breeze on deck and Pete once again reminisced his travels here. We passed huge working ships and barges expertly manoeuvred by their little tugs, how Pete canoed amongst all this enormous craft I have no idea. 

We picked up some snacks to take back for the evening as we wanted to watch the Trump/Clinton debate, which was fascinating and I cannot believe people are still backing Trump after his dreadful performance. 

NOLA  residents had a tough decision this evening as there was an important Saints ball game on the other channel at the same time as the debate. Those that watched the match were disappointed - the Saints lost. 

The Big Easy

Sunday lunch in Pat O'Brians. I had a spinach strawberry salad as a reaction against all the American fare that I had consumed - needed something fresh. Pete stuck with a burger. We then walked down to the mighty  Mississippi where Pete remembered the bank where he disembarked from his Mississippi canoe expedition some 38 years ago! Their canoes must have been mere pinpricks on the surface in these wide waters. Massive ships and barges travel this river at this point. 

It was so hot we decided to return to our apartment to cool off a little and then come out again for dinner. My knees were suffering so we booked an Uber cab to take us back in. We went onto the street to wait for it as the entrance to our stay is just a side gate and hard to spot. Pete waved down the driver as he came around the corner and pulled in but as he opened the door to climb in, we spotted a child seat and it dawned this wasn't our cab at all. The puzzled driver was unruffled and amused and lived in the house next door hence him stopping there. When we got in our actual cab, he flagged our driver and shouted "nearly got your fare there, man!" Oh well.

Cab took us to Hotel Monteleone in the stylish Royal Street so that we could sample the Carousel Bar recommended by our hosts. It was wonderful. Beautiful old hotel with a fantastic bar which was buzzing with people. The bar is an actual carousel and moves around slowly. Sadly we didn't get a seat at it, but enjoyed our cocktails at a table. Pete having to follow the bar around to keep track of who was serving him! We then realised there was waitress service, so he needn't have gone to the bar at all. A great atmosphere here and Royal street is full of beautiful antique and lighting shops which looked so pretty. 

On to New Orleans

24th September, flight to New Orleans and the heat hits you like opening the oven, despite it pouring with steamy rain when we arrived.
We got a taxi from the airport to our BnB situated on Esplanade Ave. Our driver with her Louisiana drawl told us Beyoncé was performing tonight: " she don't like wearing no clothes" , which made us laugh. Lil Dizzies was pointed out as a good place to breakfast, also some dodgy looking fried chicken place, hmmm, not so sure about the latter.

Like excited children we walked in the 90degree heat into the French Quarter to get my first taste of Nawlins and wow, what a place. Found a bar with a rock band blaring, then Frenchman Street for people watching and dinner. Every other venue has music and so does the street - a jazz band with a tuba player surrounded by a huge crowd - all you could see was the shining brass of the horn swaying back and forth blasting it's notes above the heads of the onlookers.

The whole atmosphere was mad with everyone out to have a great time.

 

Gas lamps still used everywhere, including outside our Airbnb

Last day in the Big Apple

Friday 23rd September 2016 : off to visit Brooklyn, once again in blazing heat. We took the train to Jay Street and walked through traffic choked streets back towards the water, through the area known as Dumbo. Very noisy under Brooklyn railway bridge but what a view of the bottom of Manhatten - iconic of course. 

We walked along the water past developed wharehouses of cafes and retail stores and settled for a cafe just below Brooklyn Bridge for a crab roll and coffee. It's hard work walking in this heat and after wandering some more, we decided to stop in a cool park and watch the water traffic. 

At this point I received a message from Dan concerned about Mum. I had not wanted the boys to be bothered with decisions about her care, but this was not to be so. We went back to our neighbourhood in order to get online where I could have a 3 way discussion with my sons via Whatsapp ( thank goodness for Whatsapp and what a shame my mum can't use it herself). The long-arrived-at decision was that Dan would go to visit her whilst carer was there tomorrow morning to see for himself what her physical health was like.

We had a beer at Schillers Bar, but (for the second time here; the time before totally ignored by barman regaling some girl with his life story and we walked out after he had absentmindedly thrown down a menu for us) we sat for a long time at an unbusy bar and received no service. I angrily alerted the barmaid (not like me) at which point I realised how upset I was by the worry that is my mother coming at me from this distance. I recovered enough for a Rizzos pizza with Pete propping me up and sensibly coming up with 'solutions' of a sort. Upshot was that I set my alarm for 4am in order to call Dan and the carer in their morning. A strange moment sitting on the edge of the bath (to try not to wake Pete too much) talking to Dan, who has been so caring and helpful. I now know how hard it is for any of my scattered family to get the right picture of Mum's state when you are far away. Dan and carer Emily and I decided she did not need to return to hospital at this stage and all returned to the status quo. My sister has stepped into the frame big time now and has let the carers know that she is first point of contact all the way away in Oz, kindly  allowing me my holiday. Thanks Nicky.

Send a salami to your boy in the army

Blew the electrics this morning by using the hairdryer - I said the wiring was dodgy! Never mind, our host fixed it while we were out, a good thing because we can't do without the air con as it's still 85f.

We went to BowlingGreen station at the bottom of Manhatten to visit the American Indian Museum. I loved the pottery and its decoration and the clothing and there was plenty to see of this, but sadly for Pete there were no birchbark canoes or details of their development which was surprising. We did see a birchbark house - a container made by the Anishinaabe women - our boat name is Ojibwe for 'paddle away' and we realise that Ani and ish are clearly Native American words or parts of words. We need to do more research. 

After this we headed back uptown to have lunch at the famous Katzes on Houston - a Jewish deli - where pastrami and salt beef on rye had to be tasted. Great atmosphere absolutely rammed with people - the sandwiches are huge - we had one between us, as advised by a friend of Dan's before we left England. 'Send a salami to your boy in the army' was their catch phrase when they first set up. 'Bologna' they call it of course. 

It was so hot we took the train to Central Park, walking up Madison Avenue amongst the beautiful and always it seems solo women of all ages. Found Strawberry Fields, a quiet tree dense area in memorial to John - opposite the Dakota Building where he lived and was shot.  There are still stalls selling T shirts of him here. 

The park is very peaceful. Once again some far off jazz band playing and the field where we sat was dog free, ball game free and therefore very pleasant. 

We headed back to our neighbourhood, had a beer in a friendly bar where people were meeting after their working day - then after sprucing a bit back at the apartment, we went to Death & Co, a well reviewed cocktail bar, which was small and dark, lit mainly by candlelight . It's name comes from an image warning of the dangers of drinking and gambling in the prohibition era - a slide from temptation through corruption degradation and death!! So we took no notice of that and downed 2 very expensive but lovely cocktails and some 'sliders' (small burgers). And so to bed. 

 

NYC - people and places

Downtown to the 9/11 memorial. A lot of building work is going on around it, sadly this meant lots of boarding and fencing obscuring the site as you approached it. However, the footprint holes into the earth's core were spectacular, humbling and moving. Rushing water pouring into infinity, sucking the demolition away to leave a serenity to honour the dead, whose names are carved all around the boundary. So simple but so effective. The oculus rising behind them. Wings of new life. So very clever and poignant. We learned that there is a survivor tree; a type of plum, that was found alive amongst the rubble and has been nurtured back to health and obviously extremely symbolic. 

We hthen walked along the esplanade on the Hudson west river which was peaceful and calm after the hubbub of the memorial site and the surrounding business district. We intended to do the tourist thing and take the ferry out to Liberty Island to view the statue but on reflection seeing the crowded ferries on this hot day, we thought we would just enjoy the peace of this area for a while and have lunch by the water overlooking her instead. 

We took the subway to Greenwich Village for a reminisce for me. It is up market and rich (not as bohemian anymore) and genteel,Washington Square park neat and tidy surrounded by beautiful houses on tree lined roads, the park with chess players in one corner, (a really good ) jazz band in the centre and several dog walkers walking rich ladies' ( I suspect) pooches. There are fenced off dog compounds for small dogs and large , for them to run and play and generally let off steam; no one allowed in unless they have a dog. Today I was unusually tired and fell asleep on a bench beside Pete, who was very tolerant of me and my aching knees. Greenwich village is still pretty and full of students of NYU whose buildings are all around, but I couldn't  find the little individual shops and galleries I remembered  nor the basement piano bars - it has changed but why am I surprised, it's been 40 or more years since that experience. 

New Yorkers are very helpful. We have had several encounters with passers by when we have been searching our mobile maps. They instantly recognise you are trying to find a road or venue and offer their help and advice - always welcome. And the subway ticket booth workers are equally helpful if a little speedy and offhand with their directions - you have to listen closely: NY drawl, intercom backed with rattling trains defeats my deaf ears; Pete has to take it all in and when you get an overly helpful ticket office man offering too many options, you come away with A train? Uptown to where? But we are on F line and that's an M train coming in and what platform did he say? ( they're not numbered) . Hey, but it's fun and we are learning fast. 

One World building

Photos

I am unable to upload photos on our blog as the composer app: blogger.com doesn't seem to be able to link to our photo files. I used to use an outside app but that has gone bust or something and lost all our old photos in the process. It's infuriating..... Does anyone know a way? I may be able to add them at a later date. 

Ah, wait a minute - think I have found a way! Slow though!

Spooky human sculpture on the High Line. I can't believe he managed to keep his arms up for so long! 

Photos

I am unable to upload photos on our blog as the composer app: blogger.com doesn't seem to be able to link to our photo files. I used to use an outside app but that has gone bust or something and lost all our old photos in the process. It's infuriating..... Does anyone know a way? I may be able to add them at a later date. 

Day 2 NYC

We slept like logs, even through the inevitable traffic and siren noise and neighbour's coming home late. 

Today off for more sightseeing. We once again messed up the subway by getting the train in the wrong direction - by the time we realised we didn't recognise the stations we were going through we had stopped at Broad Street and the carriage emptied. A kindly cleaner told us we were at the end of he line and in order to get to 14th street/8th Avenue, we needed to return on the A train. What a pair of tourists we are! But I will defend myself once again that their system is very strange, the lines are named by letter and yet you get numbered routes too and 'local' which means slower and then when we alighted at 14th Street, we came out to signs for 16th. Pete asked at the ticket booth and was told yeh, station goes over 2 blocks. Is it just me?! 

Anyway, we 'did' the High Line - a disused rail line that the city brains have developed into a linear park from the old meat packing area downtown to 34th Street west Manhatten. We took in Chelsea Market beforehand, having had it recommended by yesterday's tour guide in Times Square. I have to say I was disappointed again as it was all eateries - very fine and interesting food - and only a handful of over priced arts and crafts stalls. Having enjoyed Spitalfields Market and the like, I couldn't help but think this was inferior and lacked the London markets scruffy character. Very much for tourists, but the building was interesting - 
probably an old warehouse from the meat trade.

The High Line by contrast was great and inspired. To have a view of New York 'halfway' up it's skyscrapers and close-in was fascinating  and the planting spectacular. A line of peace in this busy city.

Afterwards we walked to the Empire State, another feast for Art Deco style eyes and then to the sweet Flat Iron building. Pete braved the heights at 86 stories of the Empire State. Sadly the sun had turned hazy so I didn't get those contrasty photos of this amazing skyline that I had wanted, but it's exciting all the same to see this crammed cityscape from so high up. 

On our way home (and we got the right train this time from 23rd Street to Delancy), we stopped at an interesting bar again. Having sat at the bar whilst the sole barman regaled an interested girl with his life story we started to get a little twitchy and thirsty. Eventually he plonked a bar list down in front of us without breaking conversation with his devoted ear, 
whereupon we got up in silent unison and left. Shame, the bar seemed nice too. We found an Irish themed one further on with a lovely smiley bar lady so all was not lost. We bought bread and cheese and fruit for supper back at our wobbly digs - still full from a fat Diner lunch on 34th street, the neighbouring table full of NYPD guys. We discussed afterwards why it is that we feel very safe when they are around and guessed it was because of every movie we had ever seen but not Hill Street Blues! 

New York City

Arrived in JFK at 8pm after a comfortable flight and took an expensive taxi to our Airbnb studio, where we met with our host in the Lower East Side, which despite of hype, remains an extremely scruffy area. Like London, areas become gentrified slowly and although we are on the edge of East Village where there is a more positive vibe, our street remains grotty. The apartment is above a 24/7 deli and has a 30degree slope to the floor, ancient plumbing and some very dodgy wiring but it's clean, comfortable and air conditioned; welcome in this sticky heat. And NY constant noise seeps in - the city that never sleeps. We are very aware of the police presence since the bomb on Saturday night, and that Chelsea street is still cordoned off. 

We were awake at 5am, Monday morning - 10 our time and raring to go. Heavy rain but still high temps. After the obligatory American breakfast, we trudged to the subway, having been advised to walk further than we later realised we needed to, and bought our weekly ticket. Hot sticky platforms, and wonderfully cool trains. The subway is a rattley old system, but charming too with its mosaic station names. Not a patch on our system somehow though - New Yorkers seem to walk to the line they want rather than change on route. We discovered why this was as their inter- connections are pretty non-existent. We certainly got our weekly money's worth ($30) in one day as we worked out the system slowly - not a great idea to get the downtown train when you want the uptown! Because of the rain, we intended to stay under cover, so chose this as a shopping day, but ended up sight seeing Grand Central Station, and the Chrysler building lobby - both amazing feats of architectural design and  beautiful. 


Lunch in Bloomingdales, a store I remember as being utterly wonderful when I came at the age of 25, but is now, like all big department stores, just a series of indie shops, no atmosphere of feeling of the merchandise being so different and so American. I was disappointed with this and Times Square, which according to a tour guide we spoke with is now a huge area and not just the square (called Duffy Square now) it once was. The huge, bright, flashing Bladerunner style ads are still dominant and were particularly colourful on this dull day, but they don't have quite the same impact as when they were confined to a smaller area and took your breath away. 

We ended up in a bar on the edge of Little Italy. It felt like late in the day for us but was in fact only 3.30pm. We couldn't believe this buzzing bar and restaurant at this hour on a Monday; it was full,of people eating and drinking cocktails in singles, pairs and groups. Obviously popular but how do they have the leisure time? 

Returned wearily to our strange abode and rested until dinner . Pete had found a restaurant nearby at the back of a prawn shop on Essex street. Turned out to be a very dark atmospheric place called 'Beauty and Essex' at the back of a PAWN shop, which is weird enough! 

Great day, my knees knackered. 

Welcome week's break

After looking after our gorgeous grandson, we boarded the boat at Fenny on Saturday afternoon, 13th August, in an enormous thunderstorm, hmmm, this has happened before!. Pete soaked to the skin unloading the car! Had a good get-together with Jenny and Sid at the Wharf later when the sun had come back out, the last few weeks of utter stress slowly slowly ebbing.

On Sunday, we executed a tricky itinerary that Pete had carefully planned. Picked up Jackie and Simon by car from Banbury station around 11am, then Jayne from Cropredy where she had driven to meet us, but got slightly lost doing so. Then drove back to boat and all 5 of us set off for Cropredy under mostly sunny skies. Simon cracked a bottle of fizz to celebrate our all managing to come together despite similar mum problems amongst us. We had all escaped!

We stopped for lunch on the towpath at the bottom of  Claydon locks, having got through them very rapidly with the help of Simon. Lunch finished around 5pm! Several passing boats remarking on our lazing. Pity Jayne was driving and had to restrain her alcohol intake - she showed great discipline, but I think she enjoyed herself all the same. Continued to Cropredy and moored for night. Walked Jayne back to her car where she set off back home and J and S stayed with us for a pub supper at The Brasenose, (quiz night but we didn't partake). Pete, however, could not help calling out the answer here and there - too many beers aiding his confidence! J and S got a cab back to Banbury and were home in London by half midnight. Fantastic full day with good friends, so relaxing.

And to keep the fun going, Jenny and Sid joined us once again on Bank holiday Monday, where we were moored in Banbury by then at Rolt's bridge. We progressed from cups of tea and sweeties on the edge of Spiceball Park in hot sunshine to the inevitable wine and beer. Jenny showed her mettle by sticking to one glass as she was doing the driving back to their mooring in Fenny. Once again, a lovely time with great friends who have had a bellyful of sadnesses in recent years, but lift my spirits by being so positive and cheerful and so supportive.

We had the laziest week, returning to our mooring on Friday, having travelled the grand distance to Banbury and back - a 20 minute car journey! Lucky for us that we cleaned up the boat and unloaded some stuff into the car that day, because 8.15am Saturday came a call from Mum and then the careline staff saying ambulance had been called. Returned home and went straight to the hospital. She rallied once again however and I was able to take her home that evening.

We are trying to hold onto the rest and calm we gained through our boating week. As I always say, green fields slipping by at 4mph, silent moorings all on our own and the bonus of blue skies are the best medicine there is.

This long dilapidated lock house now seems to be receiving some care.. I hope so.

3 choices offered in Cropredy