Our journey ends

31st October

On 27th I left Pete at Heyford to travel back to our mooring on his own. This being half term there were plenty of other boaters around to help, so he had a reasonable trip back through Banbury and Cropredy. Meanwhile I went home to get the car and returned on 30th.

Good friends, Jenny and Sid came to stay on their boat in the marina and they joined us for an evening (one of many we have shared with them in the past) in our local The Wharf, Sid having helped Pete on the last leg up to Fenny Compton through Claydon locks. As is usual with the four of us a large quantity of ale was consumed as we swopped tales of boating experiences and family news. All good fun. We staggered back down the towpath by torchlight, had coffee on our boat and said goodnight.

The next morning was spent emptying our boat of nearly 3 months of living aboard paraphernalia which always takes twice as long as we'd been reckoning on. Clothes, sheets, towels, food, shoes and a canoe all have to come off and fridge has to be defrosted, fuel topped up and loo tank pumped out!

Then coffee on board J and S's cosy, homely boat to say goodbye and we were on our way home by 2pm.

This trip has been exceptionally successful helped by the fantastic weather we have had, it's a terrific past time in a different, partly forgotten world and it's always a bit sad when our travelling is over. We are so lucky to own such a lovely cottage on water.

Words that Pete found from a book by Robert Louis Stevenson sum up this way of life perfectly:

"The chimney smokes for dinner as you go along; the banks of the canal slowly unroll their scenery to contemplative eyes; the barge floats by great forests and through great cities with their public buildings and their lamps at night; and for the bargee, in his floating home, "travelling abed," it is merely as if he were listening to another man's story or turning the leaves of a picture book in which he had no concern. He may take his afternoon walk in some foreign country on the banks of the canal, and then come home to dinner at his own fireside."

From An Inland Voyage by Robert Louis Stevenson (1878)

Good weather again and rowing madness

25th October

Another blue sky day!

Not a great start along Port Meadow though, as it's Saturday and all the rowing 8s,4s and 2s seemed to be out along this lake-wide stretch. It's incredibly shallow along here so we have little choice but to stick to the centre of the river. The rowers were all over the place. First they were widthways across our path, so that we had to make a full stop and then one 8 tried to undertake us just as another was heading our way. We would have been hard pressed to steer a course between them in the depth of water we need. Both Pete and I had altercations from either end of our boat with the controllers in their engined boats as they seemed to be doing very little to organise their trainees. To top it all, as we came up to Godstow Lock, the marked channel which was very narrow was impossible to enter as there were 4 rowing boats abreast completely blocking it, awaiting their next instructions from the control boats which were not coming quickly enough. Again we had to stop and this time reverse to re-position ourselves with other rowers coming up behind us - all very alarming and I shouted to one controller to ask how she proposed we were to get to the left of the marker buoy in order to get in the lock whereupon, (she having established from Pete at the stern that yes we did want to go through the lock(?!) ) she finally shouted to the 4 boats to "MOVE". What else she thought we were planning on doing I have no idea! It was as if we were invisible!

It was a relief to reach the haven of the lock and a worried-looking very young girl rower apologised to me as we went by. I explained to her that we were only cross because we were worried about colliding with them and that it wasn't their fault but that of their coaches. We think they are obviously used to having this vast expanse of water to themselves and we're surprised at their seemingly minimal knowledge of the needs of other craft like us. You would think that would be part of their training. We cannot stop suddenly, we need a certain water depth and we have to obey buoys.

Oh well, despite being a little frazzled, we enjoyed the last of the Thames anyway, past Godstow Abbey, through Dukes Cut and onto the Oxford canal to quiet Thrupp, all in sunshine!







Godstow Abbey ruins

Location:Thrupp

Canoe morning

24th October

A warm, still morning in Abingdon enticed Pete to have an early paddle instead of his end of day slot. So we set off separately, me by narrowboat, Pete by canoe to meet at Sandford Lock. He disappeared ahead of me around a bend and I didn't see him again until he doubled back, which he managed twice in the time it took Ani to travel 4 miles!

We joined forces again at the lock and travelled on to Oxford. Hardly any of the locks were manned, so I got to be lock keeper again. It is incredibly quiet, very few other boats on the move and only one or two dog walkers or fishermen around - the solitude is lovely. Because we'd got a week's Thames licence again which we didn't need but is as cheap as getting the daily rate for 5 days, we decided we would carry on upstream along Port Meadow to Dukes Cut instead of joining the Oxford canal at Isis Lock. We moored for the night ready for this last stretch of Thames alongside East Street just upstream of Osney Lock. Had a pint in The Punter pub and walked to Jericho to eat at our favourite Bookbinders. East Street and it's surrounds are similar in feel to the Jericho area. A pretty terrace of Victorian houses straight onto the road in a block which seems to have a little pub on each corner!! These areas of Oxford are as charming as it's dreaming spires.

Location:Oxford

Playing lock keeper and fine dining

22nd October

2 locks were self service today on our way to moor in Wallingford; Goring and Cleeve, so I was able to play lock keeper, which is great fun as it only requires button pushing and gives you all that sense of power as the water rushes in!! Oh how I love the Thames locks.

As this was to be a short day, Pete suggested we stop for lunch at The Leatherne Bottel above Cleeve Lock. This is now an Italian restaurant, Rossini, one of two, the other being in Wokingham. It has only been open for 7 weeks, so consequently as we were the only diners for lunch we got star treatment with a 'surprise' starter from the chef of poached salmon, olives, mozzarella and bruschetta and then we were asked to try the home baked forcaccia. What with this, a bottle of wine (you can still drink/drive a boat) and our lunch choices we rolled out some 2 and a half hours later expecting the boat to sink with our weight. The charming waiter who was from Venice told us his name was Guido, but will respond to Window or Weirdo (as people who mishear tend to call him)!

Anyway, it was nice to stop for a civilised lunch for a change instead of a sandwich on the hoof and we wish them well as they are so friendly and welcoming. We suggested they consider providing a ferry across to them from more extensive moorings on the opposite bank which could benefit their customer count. Of course, they had already thought of that and have an ambitious and very fitting plan for the type of craft. We were sworn to secrecy and will have to see if they've achieved it when we go back next year.


Goring Lock in autumn colour





Hotel boat, African Queen, waiting to come in, sadly the skipper took over and worked the gates for me!!

Hurricane

21st October

As we knew from the forecast, we were hit by remains of hurricane Gonzalo today. We attempted to move off from the bank, but were promptly blown back onto it. Something definitely telling us to stay put for the day, which we did.

Despite it being considerably colder, Pete remained in his shorts and periodically throughout the day, pressed his eager face to the windows stating "I think it's calming down" whereupon another huge gust would flap the covers, bump us onto the bank and cause the doors to swing to and fro.

Batten down the hatches, keep the fire alight and the kettle on, we're not going anywhere.

Location:Pangbourne

Home for few days

21st October
I left Pete in Reading to head home to see my grandson again, who was coming to stay with his parents so that Olly could do a cycle race. Another enjoyable few days and some smiles from a 2 month old - such a joy.

On 20th when I returned to the boat, we moved on to Pangbourne, a 3 hour cruise in showers and sun. A strangely unhelpful lock keeper at Mapledurham kept us waiting to open the gates so long that Pete went up to investigate why. He was chatting to a couple of fellows and told Pete he would be with us in a minute. He wasn't, so we operated the gates and sluices ourselves. He continued his conversation with no apparent concern. We couldn't work out why he was so nonchalant - if he had wanted some time out he could have put up the self service sign, but his sign clearly said lock keeper on duty. Most odd and not the usual friendly behaviour we are used to.

This stretch from Mapledurham to Pangbourne Meadow has to be one of my favourites. I know I have put autumn photos of it on the blog before, but can't resist a few more.

Back on the Thames

16th October

A pleasant cruise this morning at the bottom end of the K and A, past Kate Bush's Shenfield Mill; an atmospheric derelict building and wheel as well as a huge house which suits her but sets me off singing 'heathcliffe, it's me' in a startling shriek. (Not so good). Back to Reading and the scuzzy mooring by Tescos. It's nice to be back on the big wide Thames though and knowing the pretty stretch we have to look forward to with manned locks (yipee).
The traffic light system on the last bit of the K and A made sense to me today. We set it to green to go through, but by the time we had manoeuvred out of the weir stream flow, the light had gone red again worryingly. The canal is wide enough for two boats, so I was puzzled. Pete, more knowledgeable than I, full-throttled ahead past the Reading eateries and shopping centre and through the last bridge; an original therefore low and which you have to pass under in the middle with no view ahead as it is on a bend. As we came through, another boat was patiently waiting for their light to turn green. Now I understand.

Once moored Pete leapt to the rescue of 2 canoeists who announced as they paddled past that they were the entertainment for the afternoon and, as if on cue, promptly capsized!
They and the boat needed hauling onto the bank, which Pete did, but we're not quite sure what he's doing in this photo just beforehand, some kind of ritualistic mincing dance perhaps?!

Location:Reading

Rain and shine

16th October

We moored to a tree in the rain on 15th just before Tyle Mill lock and swing bridge on a pretty mooring, which we have bookmarked for future sunny days and bbqs.
We went to the very pleasant Spring Inn pub for a beer, through the window we witnessed a car hitting a Give Way sign, walked back in the dark and heavy rain, had dinner and went to bed listening to the rain and an owl.
Woke up the next morning to this, ain't England amazing at times?!






Releasing the midline for setting off

Location:Tyle Mill

The Phantom of Lock 90

15th October

As we approached Monkey Marsh Lock, I saw a figure sitting on the bench and from a distance it looked like the bowed head was shrouded which was particularly spooky, especially on this grey, dank day. As we got closer, I realised it was a man with long grey hair and beard. He was doing a crossword puzzle and I remembered him from our journey out. He lives nearby and comes to work the lock just for the fun of it. Obviously an enthusiast, keen even in bad weather, he must come every day, but a strange man who helped Pete wind the paddles and open the gates without a word.

Was he really there?

Location:Thatcham

A day in Newbury in the rain

14th October

A day of 'rest' in Newbury. A trip to sainsburys for supplies and a trip to the launderette! And the boat got a tidy up and clean. What thrills! Still it beat travelling in the rain and there's nothing like cosying by the fire whilst the rain drops patter on the roof.

Locking through with Firefly

13th October

From Hungerford we travelled a stretch I had missed on the way to Bristol, a section Pete had originally journeyed by himself whilst I returned home. It was raining heavily most of the time, but still enjoyable, rolling fields, wooded tunnels and grand houses here and there. The railway line follows closely; so closely in fact that at one lock a train hurtling through made me start, especially as it appeared to be tipped on its track towards the lock!

When we got to Kintbury we filled with water and as we were finishing, a 40' tug which was a replica of a 1920s design came past us and prepared the lock. Pete discovered as we went down the next 9 or so locks with the two eccentric crew members that the boat was built around an original 1927 Kromhout engine in 2010. I would never have guessed it wasn't original in entirety as it was charming with stern doors of carved patterned wood, oval riveted windows and a chuggy, throaty engine sound so authentic for a canal boat. It had its own engine room with a massive fly wheel, the engine had to be pre heated and then kick started like a motorbike - real man stuff! It's two cylinder engine sounded like a heartbeat when it was thrumming away but we still prefer a key! The owner Ben explained that even in 1927 the Kromhout engines were 6 times more expensive than their British equivalents and ironically he now works for an engineering company in Newbury that used to make those engines (Plenty's of Newbury) under licence. A true enthusiast clearly and an intelligent interesting young man, probably only in his 20s.

His crew partner couldn't have been more different. Whilst Ben was dressed traditionally in boiler suit and cap, his mate wore a leather jacket, jeans and hat and had a cheeky smiley face a cross between Jamiraqua and a young Keith Richards! His devil-may-care attitude as he leapt about the locks and jumped down onto the roof of the boat was in complete contrast to Ben's quiet stance. I discovered by talking to him on the lockside, that he was a musician friend of Ben's and had joined him for a couple of days to help move the boat. He was a mixture of mad muiso (types I have met in my past) and well-spoken hippy. He bragged playing with BB King and John Mayall, living in California and all over Europe. Despite being somewhat 'up himself', he was an entertaining character.

We parted company at West Mills. Firefly as it was called, continuing to it's mooring at the boatyard.

What a strange interlude - it can only happen on a canal.

                                          Kintbury colours

                                                       Ben

Location:Newbury

Wootton Rivers

10th October

As if as a reward for the hard day yesterday, we woke up to sunshine which stuck around pretty much all day. It was positively warm again with little wind. And the extra bonus was that today's journey had only one lock and two swing bridges as well as being beautiful.

This is all familiar territory for Pete. He has taken part in the Devizes to Westminster canoe race several times. But interestingly, although he knows the canal, he often says "I don't remember seeing that" about a distant view or a house and of course had not checked out any pubs along the way. But his memory of locks, bridges, woods and scenery is amazing. He can plot the route to time our day without looking at the map. Once moored in Wootten Rivers, he paddled off to relive some memories, but perhaps not so fast and focused this time!

This has been the most glorious autumn day, crows cawing, leaves drifting and a low warm sun. As we trickle along through the vale, with fluffy white clouds above hills on one side and woods on the other, the fire's chimney chuffs promising us a cosy evening; the temperature will drop off at sunset and the night become damp and misty.

Went to the pub and left a chicken burning in the oven!!







Pickled Hill - Celtic field terracing



Lady's Bridge (1808 and attributed to Rennie) Lady Susannah Wroughton's appeasement to her objection of the canal being cut through her land.

Silly cows and the Caen Hill flight again

9th October

Whilst eating breakfast on our quiet mooring in Seend Cleeve this morning, we heard the mooing of cows very close by and a distinct thundering of hooves. Looking out we saw several cows hurtling along the narrow towpath, supposedly enjoying some free time but not quite knowing where to go with it. This was a first and we were amused until there was another clamour and a distressed mooing. I heard Pete talking to someone and saying he needed to get his shoes on first and when I looked out again saw a calf in the water wedged between our boat and the bank. Pete had hurriedly loosened the front rope to give it space and a man (presumably the farmer who owned the escaped herd) managed to get a harness around its neck to hold its head up above the water but the calf was panicking so badly it was hard to keep hold of him. Our neighbour had appeared by this time in her silk pyjamas and slippers hurriedly loosening her ropes too. The farmer managed to direct the calf to a shallower part of the canal where it tried to clamber out getting its front hooves onto the bank, but slipped back again and the harness fell off once more, whereupon alarmingly it swam to the opposite bank and into bushes. It became almost unbearable to watch and eventually the drama continued beyond the bridge where we couldn't see, which was a relief really.
When we left for our heavy day's travelling, we saw a CRT worker shovelling up cow pats on the tow path - the result of over excited cow activity I guess! He told us they were all safe again and that the calf had been rescued with a hoist. Phew, what a strange start to the day!

We slogged the 29 locks to Devizes. Poor Pete operated all the locks, the Caen Hill flight being more difficult going up as I had to lob the rope into the air from 8' below for Pete to catch and secure. Needless to say I wasn't much good at it until we decided to swop the rope for a longer one with a whipped end (therefore heavier) which was much easier. Yay, the 'Caen Hill Thrower' was born. Poor old boat got banged considerably today though, as my handling suffered with side winds buffeting me. Trying to get through a single lock gate is not easy. It pelted rain on and off too, so wet ropes added to the trial. This 7 hour day had us drooping at the end of it, especially Pete who virtually walked and laboured from Seend to Devizes. The weather effects things so much; this was a much easier day when we came down in still, sunny conditions.
Still there were highlights, cheery people, a helpful CRT volunteer, and the countryside to enjoy; in its changing colours, back-dropped by black rain clouds one minute and then blue sky and sunshine the next: it is beautiful. Our neighbours tonight had been ahead of us all the way up the flight in their wide beam boat and when we reached the top, they pointed out the last mooring for us in front of them, warning us not to go further as there were no others. We were glad they told us. It was very busy, we don't know why - you'd think it was the middle of summer!




 

Location:Devizes

Blockages

8th October

After an overnight stop in Bradford on Avon, we pressed on to Seend Cleeve, 8 locks and several swing bridges, encountering a troublesome gypsy boater ahead of us who decided to moor on the wrong side of the canal in a wood very suddenly, causing us to have to stop - he apologised and waved us through but as his boat was across the canal by then, there was little we could do. He was trying to pull it back with the stern rope (he was alone) and had run aground. Short of getting in the same predicament, there wasn't anything we could do but to push him out of the way to get through. I always believe these live-aboard toughies are completely savvie, moving back and forth as they do all through the seasons and generally bucking the system, but sometimes they astound you with their lunatic selfish manoeuvres.

Further along at Hilperton, another boat with no one aboard had broken its mooring and was only held to the bank by its very slack stern rope. Pete got off our boat to pull it out of the way (it was completely across the canal). The water was so shallow and the boat obviously drawing more than a narrowboat, he had enormous difficulty and was only able to drag it back the width of our boat, so that I could squeeze past. Normally we would attempt to secure it again, but this was impossible. That owner will have a shock when he/she returns, hope they have a flexible gang plank to get onboard.

It strikes me in these days of health and safety gone mad, that boating is something that has managed to get away without too much regulation. So much of it relies on common sense (which I confess I haven't always got) and taking responsibility for your actions. And as I have said before, most boaters help each other in this. It's refreshing mostly. I just wish there were one or two notices to give you a heads up here and there; we might not have got stuck with the Spencers in lock 19 if there had been one there to warn us for instance!

Location:Seend

Ani alone

6th October

We left Bristol in heavy rain and wind, making sure we kept the fire in for drying clothes later, but we needn't have worried because by the time we got to Bath, the sun was shining again. We had a walk to the horseshoe weir area which we had missed on the way down. Another beautiful spot on the Avon, with Pulteney Bridge completing the picture. Stupidly didn't take the camera with us so the only photo I have is taken with my phone.

The 19' lock going up was even more of a horrendous exercise than it had been going down. Pete drove the boat in half-opened bottom gates (knowing how heavy they are to shut, it wasn't worth opening them fully), then secured the boat bow and stern around the narrow poles provided. Ideally he would have stayed on board, but because of my weak knees, I didn't trust myself to be able to heave myself up onto the high top gate beam to cross the lock to shut the opposite gate we had come in through. So Pete had to climb out on the slippery ladder. We then opened the gate sluices very slowly and watched as the boat started to rise. At one point I thought the ropes would not slide sufficiently and that they would either snag and tip the boat or break. Pete was more confident, but neither of us enjoyed the experience. Ironically a CRT volunteer pitched up just as we were about to open the gate to leave! Shame he didn't arrive 20 mins earlier!





Location:Bath

More of Brunel's genius and a great night out

3rd October

We walked to the Clifton Suspension Bridge, along the waterside, then up the zigzag path which is quite a climb.

In the evening, we were picked up by Sarah and shown more of Bristol's suburbs - Stokescroft being particularly interesting as an edgy, lively young area with funky cafés and individual food shops and wild graffiti. This was where the Bristol riots started with a local protest against Tescos opening there.

We went to Sarah's home for dinner after seeing her and Dan's house 'project-to-be' - this looks like a massive undertaking, it being zero-rated! , but knowing them and their boundless energies and optimism they will achieve their goal. We had the most amazing meal prepared in a completely relaxed manner by both of them and their boys helped which was wonderful to observe. Had a great evening catching up in their cosy home, reminiscing about our mad working days together. Thanks Sarah, Dan, Rueben and Max. What a family! What a night!!


 Clifton terraced houses    

















A Clifton village terrace

Bristol and a very big ship

1st and 2nd October

Headed off from our mooring along the Avon on a cooler morning. Locks are still heavy even though some are much shallower. Reached Netham Lock just outside Bristol some 5 hours later, bought our mooring licence (which works out to £25 per night) and cruised through its busy waterfront to the Cumberland basin just to view it all, then turned back to find a peaceful mooring with approx 25 berths all with hook-up and water should you want them and below modern blocks of flats - very central once again. A short walk from Millenium Square and Harbourside with their many restaurants and bars and evening hubbub.

The next day we explored into the city, finding Queens Square and St Nicholas Market (the old corn exchange with it's clock with two minute hands). We are moored opposite Brunel's SS Great Britain, so got the ferry across from 'our' jetty and visited the ship. This is very well displayed with lots to see and so atmospheric. Peering into cabin doors, you are jolted by scenes of 1800s - the surgeons, the barber, crew and passengers. The first class dining hall is set for dinner with one table even displaying the remains of it on plates. Having worked in the prop industry for so long, this was propping and set designing at it's best. We felt like we were there. It even felt as though the ship were rolling due to its curved and sometimes rickety floors.
Having visited No 1 Royal Crescent in Bath which totally lacked atmosphere, being pristine and museum-like, this shows how it can be done. Whilst Pete asked questions about the workings of the ship and how they got it back from the Falklands in 1970, I was transfixed by the minor details of life onboard it in the 19th century.

Later that afternoon, my mate Sarah and her family came on board Ani for tea and cake. What a rush of energy all of a sudden, with two very confident boys; 8 and 10 finding all sorts of things to muck about with!! I think I've forgotten what young keen lads can be like. Great to see them, lots of chat, which will continue tomorrow as we have been invited to dinner with them. So much to catch up on as I haven't seen them for a good 6 ? years.

A day out sightseeing

30th September

We have stayed put on our River Avon mooring for one extra night so that we can tour the town and baths like proper tourists. The moorings here are disappointing, being on a scruffy path beside a road. As Pete says, Bath turns it's back on it's river, relying on it's centre as it's main attraction. Perhaps we should have moored on the canal before the locks on the way in, but this is brilliantly central even if a bit rough.

Never mind the mooring, how else could we stay so central without paying a fortune. Great city with wonderful architecture as everyone knows, we walked our feet off. And it's sunny again!!


There are some interesting warehouses opposite our mooring however, looking good in the evening sun


The Crescent


Beautiful lettering - street names are carved into the stone in proper roman lettering style


What have the Romans ever done for us? Astonishing!


The Circus houses

Location:Bath

Bath deep lock

29th September

This is the deepest lock on the system at 19'. Didn't enjoy disappearing down in it much.




Glad to be leaving this lock

Location:Bath

A wetting

Pete's conscientious about keeping the boat washed, but sometimes is a little over zealous. I was quietly sitting in the bow minding my own business, when he hoiks a bucket of soapy water out from inside saying could he just climb over me with it? Before I had a chance to move out of his way, he had heaved the thing across my legs onto the ledge, gently tipping it in slow motion as he underestimated it's weight, so that I was soaked. Then he proceeded to plonk what was left of it beyond on the bank and knocked it clean over, emptying it completely, whilst moaning at me for not having moved!!

It was a total slapstick moment which had us both doubled up with laughter.

Oh how I chortled as I hung my wet trousers out to dry.

Bradford on Avon and Bath

28th/29th September

Pretty Bradford on Avon for a 2 night stop on a busy stretch up to Bradford lock. Still lots of hire boats and day trip boats out enjoying this fantastic weather. Lots of gongoozlers at the lock. We had breakfast at the Lock Inn cafe and wandered the streets, buying bread and veg in the market and I visited the tithe barn, a 14th century stone barn with the most beautiful wooden vaulted roof - surrounded by other low buildings which were once stables and granaries, but now art and craft shops. Good job Pete had decided not t do that bit, because trinkets are definitely not his thing.

On a misty Monday morning, we filled up with water rather awkwardly because some twerp had moored his narrow boat on the water point doubled up with a wide beam, then went down the lock and on towards Bath. This part of the K and A canal is the prettiest I have been on apart from the Llangollen. It follows the Avon valley, crossing the river at 2 aqueducts: Avoncliff and Dundas. Being misty it was very atmospheric and there were some beautiful views.

The sun came out just as we got to Bath.


Bradford on Avon station - untouched by time





Misty morning tiller

coming in to Bath

Avoncliff aqueduct


Dundas aqueduct