When we was in affens

We arrive in Athens from Corfu via Olympic airlines and head for the bus going to Sygmata Square, it's 5 euros each for the 1 hour bus ride , that's what I call good public transport. It was one of those big bendy busses and since we were the last people on it was packed, so no seats ! The bus driver was obviously a close relation of ' the stig ' and he was on a mission to arrive before we had left. Sara shouted that the last time she had ' strap hanged ' was when she was 19..... I thing that's what she said, its difficult to tell when someone's horizontal . It looked like a chase scene from Wallace and Grommit - gritted teeth an' all.

Our hotel had a roof terrace overlooking the acropolis which was nice, (god only knows why they built it on that hill, it's miles from the train station) it was also full of American students studying old stuff. I endeared myself to them by asking them what part of Canada they came from. Irony is a wonderful thing ,
They were quite pleased?..

I thought I might do I bit of painting while I was there but paint is in short supply ,mainly because the Athenians have already spray painted every available building in Athens .

That evening we went out for a meal . On the way at the metro station there were several tramps dossing ,the police turned up and I thought , here we go ,move them on ,of at least give them a good kicking , but no ,they checked to see if they were ok and gave them some food , nice touch. The meal itself was fine but the free drink on the house at the end of the food was the highlight.
The waitress said it cleansed the mouth and was good for the digestion....
I'm not sure what it was called , but the taste was the same as dropping a rennie into a glass of listerine .

Kea

Apparently the holiday island for Athenians, Kea is unspoilt and quiet - at least at this time of year. Our ferry got us in at 7.30pm and we were in our accommodation by 8.

A walk up to the beach to check it out and a beer at the bar opposite and we had decided that we were in another idyll. Temperatures are soaring, 30 plus every day. On Thursday, after hiring car, exploring the port and shopping for food, then swimming, we decided to take a late trip into Ioulidha/Ioulis the capital of Kea, when it would be cooler and there was a good breeze blowing.

An amazing hillside labyrinth where no cars are allowed except for delivery purposes and I certainly wouldn't want to drive through these weeny streets anyway.
We twisted and turned and climbed through deserted alleyways and I posted a card to my mum which will probably take weeks to get there! We acquired a trotting friend, who appeared to lead us this way and that, waiting at junctions for us and sometimes disappearing until we would hear a click click click of paws behind us again. I think I have since discovered that this is Hector of Kea (see Matt Barrett's website) ! He followed/lead us all the way back to our car!




Hector?










A nasty scraping sound!

















Restoration project?

Lavrio port

Took the bus from Athens to Lavrio - it took an hour and fifty minutes but was comfortable, on time and only 5 euros each!

Lavrio port is laid back and exceptionally quiet with portacabin ticket offices for each ferry line. The times are not very friendly - our ferry to Kea being either at 8.30 am or 6.30 pm. Didn't want to get up at 6 in morning so plumped for the evening crossing. Had lunch overlooking the boats though which was jolly. We have discovered that there is only one ferry a week from Kea to Andros where we are going on 1st, a Monday, and that runs on a Thursday! Sooooo......we have to go back to mainland Lavrio, take a bus to Athens other port: Rafina and a ferry back out to Andros! Our fault for not checking the ferry connection before booking accommodation, bit silly. Never mind we will get to see even more of this land.

Acropolis - wow

In Athens for a couple of days in temperatures of 34 to 37!!!
We stayed in a hotel with a roof garden view of the Parthenon and walked into the old quarter at the foot of the hill, where we found bustling life, street stalls and entertainment, bars, cafes, shops and a smart restaurant with an even better view of the Parthenon lit up. These tiny streets were crowded with people, bikes, motor bikes and even tourist 'trains'. Pandemonium, but lots to see.

We rather rashly attempted to visit the Acropolis the next morning but found an enormous queue and could see the entrance was teeming with people, so we came away and re-thought. Instead looked around our area; shops selling song birds and rabbits (live ones!) a fish market and a fruit and veg market, old run down classical buildings alongside modern. We checked out where to get the bus to Lavrio port, which is the next stage of our journey.
Athens is very scruffy, the streets quite dirty and there are homeless people sleeping rough. There is a lot of graffiti everywhere even on the edges of the archeological sites! All very run down and a sign of their times I guess. The pedestrian is second to the car too, slightly scary when you get a green man light at a crossing and something still comes at you, motor bikes and scooters being the worst and it appears they can drive on the pavements. Helmets are obviously not law and you can still smoke in restaurants, which seems so alien now.

All that said we liked our time here, it's an interesting, vibey place. Went up to the acropolis at a much more sensible time when it was cooler and far less crowded; 6pm. And what an experience in the still fierce sun. Such a grand place it must have been and how on earth did they build such enormous marble temples on top of a high hill in whatever BC? The mind boggles.

Also they must all have been blind, the glare is ferocious and they didn't have ray bans then!!

Beach

A walk away; sublime shade under an olive tree, stony beach but with clear still water, backed by stone walled terraces of olive trees, folded nets at their bases anchored at the ready to reap their fruit when the time comes.

Silence but for cicadas and lapping waves!









Time to go back for a shower and roxi bar.

Food and buses

We've been coming to the greek islands since the late 70s. Then, I remember thinking the taverna menus were limited and the cost was uniform (government controlled I seem to remember being told). Limited menus but delicious greek salads, fish, beef stews (stifado), moussaka (Luke warm at lunchtimes like lasagna in Italy). We were looking forward to authentic greek cuisine again, but we feel this time that it has been 'fused' to accommodate the different nationalities holidaying here. There is a lot of Italian slant; spaghetti, risotto, meat balls and when we have tried to order what we think of as Greek; a simple grilled meat (kebab) or the aubergine salad dip I used to love, they come covered in American mustard (the former) and mixed with peppers and other things ( the latter). It's a little disappointing. I ordered sea bass with grilled vegetables; the fish was ok, but the veg were smothered in barbeque sauce (bottled variety)!? I remember taking a boat trip years ago captained by a Cretan fisherman, who barbecued sardines and served them with greek salad in lots of olive oil and it was magic. Where has that simplicity gone?

As a result we decided to take the bus back into Gaios this morning to buy our own stuff. First of all the bus was delayed due to a hire car being parked on the treacherous bend I have mentioned before, this was fine as we were waiting in the sunshine and could have paddled while we waited had we wanted to. The bus ride was interesting, but we were shocked at the return bus fare of 10 euros for 2 of us! It's only a 15 minute ride! Still it was a joy to shop for fresh meat and veg - we missed the fish! Tonight we ate al la maison, squeezed on our balcony and it was good.

We might try the beach taverna before we leave, tsatsiki, taramasalata, plain grilled fresh fish and greek salad please?!

People

After 2 days of boat hire, trundling around Paxos, over to Anti Paxos, swimming off the boat in crystal clear water, steaming on white beaches, wandering the streets of Lakka and Gaios in heavenly heat, watching expensive sailing yachts and their tanned slick crews come and go, we are touched by the local life around us and it's contrasts.

Tonight from Roxi Bar which is owned and run by Kostas and family (Kostas being an energetic young man, organising boat hire, his ever-open bar and the local traffic tangles that happen when the bus can't get around the tight corner onto the quayside), we witnessed a lady being taken out on a boat to scatter her husbands ashes on the beach around the headland from here. Yesterday, we witnessed a bride board a boat with her father to head around to the other beach for her wedding celebrations. Both English women and we don't know their full stories despite the colourful Keith who has regaled us with parts of them. Obviously this is a romantic place that people come back to time and time again. The Greek islanders way of life (horizontally laid back mainly) speaks to all of us - easy going and undemanding.

Keith is a regular here, coming to stay for a month every year since his divorce 13 years ago. He knows everyone it seems and has a network of English friends to boat and spend time with. We still get the impression he is incredibly lonely though. We discovered his big dream is to live on a narrowboat - he lives in north London and frequently walks the grand union tow paths, enjoying the smell of smoke from the boat's fires. Didn't seem to put him off us telling him we had ours lit right up until June! I can just see him living that life as so many lone men do.

Paxos

Bus to Corfu port, hydrofoil to Paxos, in the bar beneath our pretty accommodation by 7pm. And it has to be ouzo for me!
Loggos is very quiet and tiny. Our bedroom balcony is directly above the sea, waves gently lapping, crystal clear water and spectacular boats coming and going.

Bliss.

Then of course you start re-thinking your life. Having just spent several weeks freezing on our narrowboat in England's worst spring, we have arrived here to heat, turquoise waters and languid sailing and cant help starting to dream of boating here. Especially Pete - am trying to hold him back - it's not easy!! And I can't find a valid argument anyway!

Just look at it...........

Cor phew

Greek heat, bring it on!